miyao 2017SS Collection「白い天使と黒い天使、どちらがお好き？」In MIYAO’s world everything IS in black and white

黒と白とを対象的に見せた今回の2017年SSコレクション。テーマ「空はここにある」。
ふんわりした袖のパフスリーブにAラインのシルエット。羽を思わせるデザインが取り入れられ、どこからか性格の違う白い天使と黒い天使が舞い降りてきたのか？と思った。構築的な要素が全体にちりばめられており「ミヤオ」らしさは健在だ。白鳥の羽のようなふんわりギャザー、レースなどを取り入れつつもフェミニン×マニッシュさのコントラストがいい具合に仕上がってます◎

Miyao presented his 2017 SS collection with the theme, “Here is the sky”. He plays with poufy silhouettes in the sleeves and has an affinity for the A-line dress, making his pieces on the comfy throw-and-go side. He is known for the wilted “wings” design as seen above, which comes off as being either angelic and innocent, but perhaps also something darker. It’s a paradox that comes through in many of his designs, and the DNA perhaps has always been there (he got his start at Comme des Garcons, afterall).

MIYAO SS 2017 Tokyo

すでに発表された2017-18年AWコレクションももちろん魅力的。「optimistic=楽観的」がテーマとなった、南米からインスパイアされたモード感のあるエスニックがキーワード。マニッシュなエナメルのレースアップシューズに三つ編みヘアー×シルクハットを合わせたアダムスファミリーのウェンズデーを思わせるダークな可愛らしさもポイントだ。
ブラックをメインカラーに、ホワイト・ベージュを組み合わせ、なんといってもレオパードがとても新鮮に感じた。スカートにおいても、ワンピースにおいても卵型のようなふんわり丸みのあるボリューム感とIラインのまっすぐシルエットのコントラストが今季の特徴かな？なんて思いながら、本格的な夏がまだ始まってもいないのにもう秋冬が気になる！なんて困った困った…

And then, because I am a season late at showing the genius that is Miyao, let us look at the already-revealed AW 2017 collection as well.

Well, well… what is this bright color?? The collection theme is “Optimistic”. Mr. Miyao was inspired by South America, with punchy fever seeping not only into the lookbook but also into the details of the collection. The braids, the sleeves, the ruffles, the capes, the hat, it is all there, but since this is MIYAO the girl isn’t going to boogie to the music. No, this is the Wednesday Addams of South America, a cool, dark girl who knows she doesn’t need to be in a rainbow to be in style (side note, I actually met some very slick, cool and dark girls in Lima, Peru last year who just want to wear black).

With that said, there is the interesting animal print look here, which is a much wilder departure for Miyao than we’ve ever seen before (he has done some flowers and camouflage before, but…). The contrast to the B&W worldview with the sudden attack of color is perhaps alluding to his inpiration source? Are we in store for a wilder Miyao going forward? Pick up a piece of this brand at Wall in Harajuku and see if your inner animal comes out this AW.

MIYAO AW 2017-18 TOKYO