BACKSTAGE + INTERVIEW AT JENNY FAX SS 2012 TOKYO. CARRIE HORROR + COY GIRLS MANGA=?
ジェニーファックス2012年春夏バックステージ＋インタビュー！大人ホラー＋少女漫画というファッションレシピはどんな味？
Jenny Fax is designed by the female better half of Mikio Sakabe, a
young but established designer at Tokyo Fashion Week. Taiwan-born Shueh Jen-Fang
is her name and spring/summer 2012 was her second collection and her
first full fashion show. And boy was it a doozy! It’s one of those
“love it or hate it” situations.
But I loved it. Mostly because Jen-Fang is one of the only designers
that digs out ideas deep within herself and translates it into
clothing, when many collections nowadays are merely trend-chasers and
seem so lukewarm in their earnest towards *leading* fashion. I took one
look at these backstage photos by Yume and KNEW I had to talk to her because
something else was going on deeper than we could see. After you
read both parts of the interview, you’ll understand what I mean.
Mikio Sakabeのデザイナーの片方、台湾生まれのShueh Jen Fangのブランド、Jenny Fax。
彼女は今回の東京コレクションが初の本格的なコレクション参加と
これがなんとも物議を醸しているわけです。つまりは、好き嫌いが
私はというと、意外と好きかも、といのが正直な感想。
何故なら、今日のデザイナーはトレンドばかりを追い求めているよ
彼女のように、自身の歴史を深く掘り下げていって、それを洋服と
そして、このショーのバックステージスナップを見ていて、
彼女のコレクションが、披露される洋服のみばかりではなく
より深いところまで表現しているということに気付いた私は
いても立ってもいられなくなり、すぐさまアポを取ってインタビュ
多分、この言葉の意味も、インタビューをご覧頂ければ分かるはず
衝撃的です。part2までご覧くださいーーー
Misha: How did I feel after your first show?
Jeng: It’s a dream come true. But oh it was also so stressful. Because
I got so many compliments on the first collection that it was
stressful to come up with something good again. I mean, it really is
like a housewife becoming a designer because I am usually behind
Mikio.
M: where is your brand sold?
J: Concento-Roppongi Hills. Mousse- Kobe Macaronic-Harajuku We tried
to do a web shop but we are so slow to update it you know….I look at
CANDY’s online shop and they update it everyday. It’s impossible, I
don’t think we have the time.
M: So you studied at the Royal College with Mikio?
J: I think everyone misunderestands since I actually studied in
Brussels at a smaller school. But we were together in Amsterdam and I
traveled 40 minutes by train everyday to school. We didn’t have any TV
reception so to keep ourselves entertained we rented a lot of DVDs. I
am a TV and movie otaku.
Misha: 初めてのショーを終えての感想はいかがですか？
Jeng: 全く夢が叶った気分です。もちろん大変でしたが、最初のコレクシ
それを維持していくのはホントに大変でした。私は普段ミキオのサ
自分のブランドで作品を発表するのはなんだか奇妙ですね。まるで
M: そういえば洋服はどこで売られているんですか？
J:六本木ヒルズの Concento、神戸の Mousse、原原宿のMacaronicです。オンラインショ
マメじゃないから更新できなくて…その点では、CANDYのオン
M:ちなみに出身はミキオさんと同じくアントワープでしたっけ？
J: そこがよく間違えられるんだけど、私はブリュッセルにあるもう少
それで、アムステルダムで一緒に住んで、私は40分かけて学校に
その時は、テテレビが見られなかったからDVDばかり観ていたの
M: It’s funny how you said that you weren’t really a huge fan of manga
before you met Mikio, and yet your collection seemed to play off of it
MORE than anything Mikio has ever done.
J: Well actually I think I was a long time fan of “shojo-manga”…you
know, the really old ones. It’s just the new stuff that I’ve never
seen.
M: What did you read? Like the Rose of Versaille?
J: Just watched anime actually…like “Candy Candy”. It’s a really old one. And
Daddy Longlegs!
M: Gosh I don’t know those… but I really get the fascination. I read some shojo-manga
when I first came to Japan to study and really liked it. …But then I
quickly stopped reading it at all. The illusion was broken…nothing
was as funny or romantic in real life as it was in those comics
anyway. Haha…it was more…
J: Boring? Like robotic?
M: Yeah, well, normal. I was having fun anyway…I didn’t need them.
M: 以前、ジェンさんがマンガにハマったきっかけはミキオさんだった
でも今では、ミキオさんよりもそのことをテーマに扱っているよう
J:でもまあ少女マンガは昔から好きでしたからね。
例えば、キャンディキャンディとか、ダッディロングレグスとか古いものです。
M:そのマンガは知らないかも… でも気持ちはよく分かります。私も初めて日本に来た時に、少女マ
でも現実問題、あんなロマンティックなこと起こりえないって気付
J:つまらなくなってしまったってこと？
M:うんと、つまらないわけではないけど、そこまでの興味を抱か
J: I just hated studying…it’s a lot more interesting to see things.
It’s why I watch anime. Sometimes with Mikio. It’s good study…to
learn a little more about what and how he’s thinking.
M: Maybe you don’t really want to know!!? (laugh)…. So you’re not
studying Japanese?
J: Well, I don’t read it.
M: Are you not concerned what Japanese journalists are writing about
your work though?
J: Not so much…. I mean I know some came in to the showroom and were
saying, “Who is going to buy this??”. But I’m at peace. It’s OK with
me.
M: You said one of the inspirations for the collection was “Twin
Peaks”. That was filmed very close to my home town…
J: Really??! It was on TV at midnight in Taiwan when I was younger. I
wasn’t supposed to watch it…my parents said it was only for adults.
But I would sneak out and watch it anyway. (laugh) Then when I said I
wanted to watch it again as a grownup, Mikio bought me the whole set
on DVD! I even insisted on using the Twin Peaks song in my show.
J:私の場合は、勉強するのが本当に嫌いだったので、色んなこと
だからアニメも見るようになったし、たまにミキオとも見るし。だ
M:へぇ、男は知らない方がよかったりして笑 日本語を勉強したりしないんですか？
J:文字は読めないですね。
M:日本のジャーナリストの書く反応が気になったりしないで
J:いや、あまり。展示会とかをやると、こんな服だれが買うんだ
M:今回のコレクションのインスピレーション源はツインピークス
J：ええ、本当に？私がツインピークスと出会ったのは、まだ小
両親に、”これは大人向けの番組だから見ちゃだめ”と言われて、
それで、もうちょっと大きくなってからもう一度見てみたいと思っ
M: That didn’t really click…maybe because the clothes were so peppy
and cute looking…compared to that dark show
J: Well, I used a lot of red in the end… like the red suit. That was
inspired by the “red room” from the show.
M: You mean to say the color red in your show signified horror?
J: (laughs) Yeah.
M: And the makeup too? Their eyes were all red.
J: Well I think I`m a fan of horror in general. But I also wanted to
make a contrast. The models are so young, in their teens, and yet they
were wearing these fancy dresses.
M: It’s kind of like “Carrie”
J: Oh, I like that movie too (laugh).
M: It’s perfect with your prom dresses from the show (*Jeng said she
had always wanted to go to American prom after seeing it on TV so I
told her my tale of going to prom in the US. Buuuut let’s skip
this….*)
M:今回のショーは、ダークな雰囲気と対照的にとてもスイートな
J:でも、重要なところでは赤を使っていたのに気付いた？レッド
M:つまり、あの赤はホラーの要素でもあったわけですね？
J:その通り(笑)
M:そういえば、メイクでも赤がよく使われてましたよね？
J:そうね。多分私、凄いホラー好きなんだと思う。それと、必要
M:まるで”キャリー”みたいな雰囲気。(笑)
J:そうね。あの映画も好きよ(笑)
M:その為のプロムドレスってことですね。完璧なコントラスト！
J: I always wanted to have a dress with the big puff sleeves growing
up. But there are 4 kids in my family so I never got what I wanted. So
in my collection I am living out my dreams. When I was really young I
wanted a white dress but I couldn’t have one…and then there was a
recital at my school where we needed one so I was finally allowed to
buy one. But then at the recital there was another girl who had the
same dress! I was so disappointed!
M: So you’ve had some traumatic fashion memories…
J: Yes! it’s a complex…trauma.
M: So now that you were able to make a dress for your collection, did
you try it on?
J: Well, it’s not my ideal dress anyway. Because I wanted to order it
in a different fabric.
M: Do you want to keep on being a designer or do you have different plans?
J: I would love to do a movie someday. It would have something to do
with boarding school… we had so many rules and so much pressure to
follow them. I’d like to delve into the stress that causes.
M: I’m guessing it would be pretty scary.
J: Oh, for sure!
(You guys have no idea what I mean…just wait til part 2 tomorrow!)
J:いつも、パフスリーブのドレスに憧れてたんだけど、私は４人
白いドレスにも凄く憧れていて、それも買ってもらえなかったんだ
M:なるほど。いろいろとトラウマがあるわけですね…
J:そう！完全に、コンプレックスなの！トラウマ！
M:でもこうして、自分でドレスを作れるようになった。自分の作
J:えっと、実はあのドレス達は、私の理想ではないの。素材が、
M:今後の展開としては、このままデザイナーとしてやっていくつ
J:映画とかやりたいって思ってる。なんか、学園もの。私の学校
M:なんか凄く怖い作品になりそう…
J:もちろん！
(本当に怖いと思いますww その証は続き、パート２で！）
To be Continued…..
続きます・・
