yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

“日本人デザイナーがパリのオートクチュールに12年ぶりに登場”

そんな快挙を成し遂げたのは、レディガガをはじめとする海外アーティストなどへの衣装提供で知られるユイマナカザト。なんと12年前にモリハナエがオートクチュールショーを成し遂げてから、日本人の参加はご無沙汰だったというから驚きだ。もともと、衣装提供に力を入れていた彼は量産型のプロダクトづくりより、オーダーメイドで一点一点凝ったものを作ることに向いていると自己を分析しているし、今までのクリエーションをみてもそれは一目瞭然だ。

“It’s been 12 years since a Japanese designer was seen on the haute couture runway”

And with that, Yuima Nakazato took his ouvre of costume design for the likes of Lady Gaga all the way to the top stage, as a guest member of this year’s Haute Couture collections in Paris. As we all know, to show a haute couture collection during this fashion week, one must be specifically invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture so being asked to a guest spot is a huge honor.

12 years ago it was Hanae Mori with her ball gowns and intricate decor for ladies looking to be glitzy. But Yuima brought his own shade of glitz, in the form of his signature holographic fabric, which turnt out that runway like a future fantastic Bjork in hyperspeed.

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

記憶にすごく残っているのが、2014年のメンズコレクション。3Dプリントでつくられたフィールドの上を空想上のバスケットボール選手たちが駆け巡るという設定でインパクト大だった。

彼の作品はいつも、ハードコアでアバンギャルドでフューチャリスティック。また、学生の頃から手がけているホログラムのオリジナルファブリックは、ひとつのシグニチャーとして確立されており、トートバッグや財布、キーケースなどのグッズも作っている。

オートクチュールに参加するということは、世界が注目するパリから発信することができるということ。この大きな挑戦に踏み切ったことは、今後海外でコスチューム制作活動や衣装デザインを軸にやって行く上ではずせない。

今回のコレクションは、アイスランドをソースに得意のテクノロジーを駆使した、未来的で前衛的かつハイクオリティな世界が広がっている。

各ルックの服自体はもちろんだが、どうやって体重を支えているのか?と疑問が浮かぶような、はじめて見る形のブーツ、顔だけでなく腕や髪の毛にまで広がっている、氷の様に温度のない印象のメイク、(アバターが思い浮かんだ)全てが融合し相乗効果を産み、”アイスランド スペーシア プリンセス”をつくりあげている。

このように、日本人がどんどん海外の大舞台で活躍することはとても喜ばしく、誇らしいこと。最新テクノロジーを操るユイマナカザトの服づくりは、必ず日本のファッションの未来をつくり、同時に、世界のファッションシーンを輝かせ続けるだろう。

The last time we saw Yuima Nakazato was in 2014, and he was putting out a menswear collection made from 3D printing techniques. He imagined an extreme deathball-like sport on motorcycles with equally intense costumes. It was like AKIRA meets dodgeball. His work is always very extreme and avantgarde, and it always incorporates his holographic textiles making it very future-forward. Very recently, he put out a colletion of accessories made from this fabric, and then for fun he made a fully holographic leather jacket that was like a Batcall to some other planet.

It’s incredible to see this young ingenue (who has had ample training; he graduated from the Royal School of Art) getting worldwide attention. Move over, Iris Van Herpen!

So this collection was inspired by a trip to Iceland that Yuima took, parlaying the ice and otherworldy-ness of the landscape into his alien-esque designs. Don’t miss the shoes!

While it’s cool to say “Yes! A Japanese designer at haute couture!” It is just as fun to say, “Yes! New technology at haute couture!” And the likes of Yuima Nakazato and his cohorts are pushing boundaries, in culture as well as in innovation.

Yuima Nakazato Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

yuimanakazato haute couture 2016

Natsumi Yasuoka
Misha Janette


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