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Tokyo Brands AW 2015秋冬の東京ブランド

When discomfort is our ideal. Undercover 2015 AW. アンダーカバーの2015秋冬コレクションは違和感の塊。

details of undercover 2015 aw collection

違和感は、人を惹き付ける。

アンダーカバーの2015秋冬コレクションは違和感の塊。デザイナー高橋盾がつくるその世界に、見る者は引き込まれ、そして顔を歪める。

Sometimes thinks that make us uncomfortable to watch can be the most enthralling. It’s the “car crash” effect, knowing that something is wrong but wanting to slow down to gawk a little bit anyway.

For Undercover AW 2015 womenswear, it was a helluva uncomfortable situation. But, magnetic in it’s presence anyway. Those who observe are pulled into designer Jun Takahashi’s world with a …contorted face of curiosity.

undercover 2015 aw collection

 

まず目がいくのはモデルの顔に着いた透明マスク。無理に口角を上げられたような違和感のある表情には不穏な空気が漂い、恐れさえ感じる。
無理に作り笑いをするのがくせになってしまった現代人に向けたメッセージなのか、それとも整形しすぎて不自然になってしまった顔を表しているのか。。

ガラスが刺さったようなデザインのアウターやボトムスが、その触れてはいけない領域を具現化しているようにも見える。

そして、トガを思わせるドレープの重なりは、そんな今を生きる私たちに”原点に帰ろう”と言っているみたい。

印象的な絵画はベルギーの画家、ミヒャエル・ボレマンスのもので、目からビームが出ていたり、鼻が黄色かったり、ここにも違和感のシュールレアリスムが感じられる。

また、ミヒャエル・ボレマンスの作品にある透明マスクも、アンダーカバーのコレクションに影響を与えているのだろう。

ディテールとアクセサリーの写真は下に載っていますので是非見てください

First, you can’t help but notice the clear masks on the models, with their mouths pulled up beyond normal human composure creating a sense of odd horror. Is this “fake smile” a message to our era of made-up niceties and fake shells  of ourselves that we parade around? Or is it about plastic surgery, where the face goes beyond looking real any longer, and instead a mask on our skull?

The broken glass on the clothes, is like a warning that we shouldn’t approach it too closely, in a literal sense. And then there’s the draped styles of the toga, which may be reminding us it wouldn’t be a bad idea to go back to where we began.

For the artwork on the clothing, it was done in collaboration with artist Michaël Borremans, with laser beams shooting out of expressive portraits’ eyes and yellow liquid dripping from noses. This here makes us very uncomfortable, but wanting a closer look at the details of the surrealism it provides.

Michael’s masks are obviously a big source of inspiration, leaving us to wonder if it’s us or Takahashi who’s wearing it.

Exclusive detail shots of the collection and accessories like bags and shoes for Undercover 2015 AW too- please have a look.


michael norremans art

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details of undercover 2015 aw collection

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details of undercover 2015 aw collection

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details of undercover 2015 aw collection

details of undercover 2015 aw collection

details of undercover 2015 aw collection

details of undercover 2015 aw collection

details of undercover 2015 aw collection

details of undercover 2015 aw collection

details of undercover 2015 aw collection

靴とバッグが光る! The shoes and bags contain glowing , haunting lights

undercover 2015 aw collection

undercover 2015 aw collection

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