I have put together a rather unique pop-up shop for Daimaru Shinsaibashi in Osaka, as they allowed me to experiment before they close down to renovate the Art-deco-era building. Over the course of 6 weeks, three groups of brands which represent the next generation of luxury fashion from Japan will be presenting an ample lineup of their newest collections and archives for sale.
We are now into the second of the three parts, on from Dec 16 to 30th. The theme is “Edge”
I have asked 5 brands who have a strong sense of self and stand out better for it: Christian Dada, Leonard Wong, Nocturne #22 In Ｃ Sharp Minor, Op. Posth., and accessories brand Flake. Please read about these special brands below and check out the store at the first floor of the grand Daimaru Shinsaibashi Department Store on the main Midosuji Road. (and don’t forget to check out the holiday windows I designed for them!)
Time for backstage goodies, starting with Nozomi Ishiguro S/S 2012. he collection was dubbed “Choux a la creme and coup d`etat” which has to be one of the most brilliant names for anything I’ve ever heard. A band, a brand, a book, a boutique hotel… (YES!)… “PUT IT ON A T-SHIRT!” I would say, but Nozomi was already ahead of us. The title came about when he became discouraged with all of the articles on tragedy he had been reading in the newspapers, and was jolted into his own reality when he saw his wife and child making cream for choux puffs in his kitchen.
Even though there was a “coup d’etat” going on the runway, it was an extremely delicate collection with the blouses looking like they were knitted with silkspider webs. Even the hair was web-like and messy, like the models have already been in the throes of battle.
Nozomi Ishiguro Haute Couture is the name of the brand, and it is what punk is doing for couture that luxury denim is doing for jeans. His couture is one-off, but it’s not meant to be perfect…it’s far more organic and free. Even so, it is still crafted meticulously and always comes with meaning and punch.
Nozomi Ishiguro went sweet but dicey with his Haute Couture line (basically one-off pieces) with a “Creme Puff and Coup d’etat” theme. It started out extremely elegant…. the embroidered midriff tops in black and white were gorgeous. Think Givenchy haute couture AW11-SS12 giant embroideries but made spiderweb-y with cotton stuffing or fuzzy yarn. Then there were the skirts of defiance, made of banners wrapped around the body…they were defiant against cream puffs? Or for the need of more cream puffs? I`m not sure… I couldn’t stick around to hear Nozomi speak because I had to run off, but I wanted so many pieces from this collection! I’ll take a dozen of them please, freshly baked and ready to go. I can’t wait to talk more about pastries and fashion with Nozomi at his exhibition soon.
I am so very very proud to share with you a project done in collaboration with Przemek Sobocki, a dear friend and one of my favorite illustrators this side of the runway.
This project features one illustration for each “day” in my life in Tokyo, given a surreal, fantasy-spin. I sent snippets of my favorite items from Japanese brands and he magically transformed them into stylized works of art.
That moment, when you’re in the middle of an intense conversation with Ms. or Mr. X sitting next to you about fluff….fashion follies and fantasy…and the lights drop and a maniacally tall unearthly being steps out on the runway grabbing everyone’s rapt attention. 10 times out of 10 that intense conversation will never be returned to again, left to languish. We are already on to the next thing.
Under the glow of red lightbulbs strung from the Laforet ceiling in Harajuku, Nozomi Ishiguro presented his fall/winter 2011 collection. Of course, the show comes about a month late due to the earthquake, but I think the extra time afforded really lent to a high-quality show. Nozomi is known for his always-changing collections every season, always evolving, but within his own contained wind tunnel. One thing is for sure, this brand is truly “Tokyo” as it is highly experimental and kept small-scale.
Matsuyou, who is one of Japan’s uber-bloggers and Tweeters, was covering the show for WWD Japan. Sitting next to me she asked, “How do you judge a show when it isn’t necessarily your own taste?” I advised her to pick apart the looks; forget the hair and makeup, and look at just the skirt or just the jacket and determine if it is a good piece or not. This is how fashion professionals learn to translate the shows for themselves.
This collection is one of his best yet. It was chicer and the clothes had an extremely high quality to them than I had ever seen before. His publicist said he drove his manufacturers crazy going for such complicated, high-quality techniques. It truly showed! I went gaga for the black and white look seen below and the red poufy skirt! They are one-off pieces though, and very hard to acquire. Fans take note!