Not unlike the nomads of ethnic tribes of the world, when a worker leaves the brand it works for, he always keeps a part of that influence in his oeuvre. In Miyao’s case that is Comme des Garcons, which is not a shabby empire from which to seed the world. We last checked in six months ago, and he’s already expanding the collection enormously with Miyao AW 2015.
(continued, 5F-6F) We’re taking a bottom-to-top, inside-out tour of possibly the best store in the world, Dover Street Market Ginza in Tokyo. If you’re unfamiliar with the shop, you might want to start with the digest version I’ve written here for ANA, for the uninitiated (in English). See the artwork, the exclusives, and why it’s the world’s ultimate shopping destination. So settle in and slowly suck on the eye candy. 1F-2F is here.3F-4F is here.
(continued, 3F-4F) We’re taking a bottom-to-top, inside-out tour of possibly the best store in the world, Dover Street Market Ginza in Tokyo. If you’re unfamiliar with the shop, you might want to start with the digest version I’ve written here for ANA, for the uninitiated (in English). See the artwork, the exclusives, and why it’s the world’s ultimate shopping destination. So settle in and slowly suck on the eye candy. 1F-2F is here and5F-rooftop is here
We’re taking an over-the-top extreme tour of possibly the best store in the world, Dover Street Market Ginza in Tokyo. If you’re looking for something casual, you’re on the wrong continent, bub. But you can get a much easier-to-digest version I’ve written here for ANA, for the uninitiated (in English). You might want to start there first. However, if you wanted a total bottom to top look at what DSM is offering, the artwork, the exclusives, and why it’s the ultimate shopping destination, then settle in and slowly suck on the eye candy.
The youngest designer to step into out of the Comme des Garcons institute of gifted ingenues and onto the world stage is Kei Ninomiya, who celebrated his first runway show “Kei Ninomiya Noir AW 2015-16” in Paris during fashion week. (Many fashion pubs are mistakenly calling the line “Comme des Garcons Noir” when it is actually “Kei Ninomiya Noir”, FYI).
Black is the city girl’s uniform. The newest label from Comme des Garcons, NOIR by Kei Ninomiya, is the perfect engineer for a modern urban wardrobe. The architectural details here are provoking but not overbearing; they’re ready to provide forgiving armor for the daily grind. But black doesn’t mean boring.
You see, women who wear black lead the most colorful lives….
『黒』は都会に住む女性のユニフォーム。黒を前提にした「NOIR by Kei Ninomiya」はコムデギャルソン発若手ブランド。これなら、シティガールのワードローブをサポートする最適なパトナーのではないか。…この構築的なディテールをソフトに落とされたことで、日常におけるバトルの甲冑になってくれると同時に着心地のよさをキープ。でも『黒』ばかりって、けして面白いわけじゃない…っけ？いや、違う。 だって、黒を着る女性はカラフルな人生を送ってるから。
“I don’t really wear scarves, but if I don’t buy this now I will regret it,” famous words spoken by Vogue Girl’s Gunji-san at the preview for the hotly anticipated Hermes x Comme des Garcons collaboration, tagged “Comme des Carre” (how clever) in Tokyo on Friday. That sentiment is basically what makes this industry tick, and why our thirst for collaborations probably can never be satiated. Who woulda thunk Hermes and CdG putting out scarves together?? It’s just. So. Cool. Amirite?
“わたし普段スカーフなんてしないんだけど、これは今買わなきゃ絶対後悔すると思う…”これは、先週金曜日東京で発表されたHermesとComme des Garconsのコラボスカーフ“Comme des Carre”のパーティーにて、Vogue Girlクリエイティブディレクターの軍地さんによって発せられた言葉。この台詞には、この業界が常にフレッシュなものを求めるという性質をうまく表しており、このことから今や定番化したブランドコラボの重要性を強く感じられた。特に今回の場合、両者ともファッションピープルのフェイバリットブランドで、誰もが心待ちにしている様子がそこかしこから見て取れた。
Photos by Mamitan for TfD
The collection is split into two sections: monotone black and white patterns, and colorful patterns. Thus, CdG held two reception parties in tandem, one at their Aoyama flagship store for the monotone pieces, and then at Dover Street Market in Ginza for the colorful pieces. I received two invites from Comme in the mail and assumed they had accidentally sent two so incidentally almost threw one away. Whoops. And yes, they had us fashion people running all around town to get to both. The staff at Comme were in the most panic: 6-7:30 in Aoyama then 7:30 to 9pm in Ginza..We have to GO!!!
ブラック＆ホワイトのモノトーンベースと、カラフルなパターンとの二つのシリーズに分けられた今回のコレクション。ということでこの日はComme des Garcons青山店と銀座のDover Street Marketと二つの店でパーティーが行われた。そんなことつゆ知らず、私のポストに投函された２通のインビテーションを手にこれは何の間違いやら、と思考を巡らせたのがその前日のこと。うっかり片方を捨ててしまわなくて良かった！というわけで、一晩で青山～銀座をクルージングし、存分にこのコレクションに浸ることができました。
…meanwhile at Dover Street Market…
A little Hello Kitty x Hermes collaboration on the side 勝手のエルメスxキティちゃんコラボw
The scarf with polkadots (Garcon’s signature) splayed over the traditional Hermes print scarf has sold out by midday I am told. Prices range from about 50,000yen to 250,000 for a large one, so there’s something for everybody.
The mannequins were my favorite part… covered in the fabric from the collaboration, they were squishy and pliable and everyone kept bumping into them and knocking them off the rails they were hanging off of. They were pulling off some amazing acrobatic poses….
The Comme des Garcons Dover Street Market is a long time coming… 8 years in fact, since it opened in London.
Of course Tokyo has never been deprived of CdG blessings…it is cheaper here than anywhere else, and we have several outlets including a flagship, the Trading Market on Omotesando, numerous guerrilla stores throughout the years, and even a 10 Corso Como. ..well, until that closed down last month. Still, the bitching and moaning about no DSM was mum.
もちろんコムデギャルソンは日本のファッションにとって欠いてはならない存在。そしてもちろん世界中で一番リーズナブルにギャルソンが手に入るのも、この日本。そのショップといえば、青山にあるフラッグシップストア、表参道GYREに入っているトレーディングマーケット、そしてゲリラストアもしばしば作られている。そしてセレクトショップ形態といえば、10 corso comoがあったのだがこちらが泣く泣くクローズして今回のドーバーストリートマーケットに変身したというわけ。
But that’s OK, because now we have a *6* story Dover Street Market, which is the most artistic and experimental of any store you’ll find in the world. I knew this opening would be big… not only for Tokyo, but for the world who was anticipating this after being teased with the idea for over a year now.
It was also the largest event Tokyo has seen in 2012 so far. I heard Stephen Jones would be in town with his hats, and so would Kim Jones, to christen his corner dedicated to Louis Vuitton menswear. It was something not to be missed— and as expected people came out in droves! Even Mami “mamitan” Tanabe joined me; it was wonderful to have her around again! Check out her photos of the opening reception below!
New style maven Tiffany Godoy 東京ストリートスタイルの先駆者Tiffany Godoy
DJ/Stylist Peli. Her dark eyebrows and lips are the jam and tell you everything you need to know. DJ/スタイリストのPeli。ダークリップにダークな眉、さすが。
Designer Damir Doma(left). デザイナーのDamir Doma(左）.
Photographers Ryan Chan, Leslie Kee, designer Junji Tanigawa and WWD Japan editor in chief Yamamuro-san. フォトグラファーのライアンチャン、レスリーキー、タニガワ ジュンジさん、そしてWWD編集長の山室さん。
Can you count the number of matching bags and straps here? All by Yoruko Banzai.
This would be high priestess Rei. BOW bitches. レイ大先生のお出まし！
Verbal at the Louis Vuitton corner, wearing the newest collection. He was telling me about a pin badge he designed with Kim that plays music through headphones. Only 30 will be made so watch out for them here! Verbal、ルイ ヴィトンのコーナーでの一コマ。最新コレクションから品定め中の模様。ピンバッジをキムとデザインをしたものだそうで、ヘッドホンに繋ぐと音が流れるんだそう。限定３０個のみ生産！
Stephen Jones telling me about his collection. Me: “Stephen, I LOVE hats!” Stephen: “Dear, I couldn’t tell!”
We then all went out for a night cap after the party.