YJ-0377

毎年おなじみの装苑賞レポートを、今年もお送りします!

今や、素材開発から力を入れなければファイナリストにも残れないような、どんどんレベルを上げてきているこのコンペティションは、豊かなクリエイティビティと若いエネルギーを持った駆け出しのデザイナーたちが参加しているため、面白い作品がたくさん見られる。

賞は全部で5つ。ルームス賞、イトキン賞、装苑賞佳作1,2位、そしてトップの装苑賞だ。回を重ねる毎に業界内からの注目度も増し、受賞者へ与えられる恩恵も盛大だ。トップには100万円と、パリへの留学資格など、他の受賞者へも賞金やミシンなどの商品等、豪華なリストがずらっと並ぶ。

さて、あなたの選ぶいちばんと、実際の装苑賞は同じかな?

若手デザイナーたちのクリエーションをぜひチェックしてみてください。日本にはまだまだ才能ある若者がたくさんいます。彼らの今後の活躍を期待したい!

It’s another year and another round of the SOEN Fashion Awards, which are considered the most prestigious of contests in Japan for discovering young talent. Every time, getting the prize gets more and more difficult as young ingenues are tasked not only with creating an awe-inspiring  3-piece collection, many now have to dabble in developing their own technology, fabric and innovative couture techniques to come out on top. …All while impressing a panel of judges that are the top in Japan, like SOMARTA, Dresscamp and Tsumori Chisato. The winner is bestowed with 1 million yen and an all-paid study abroad in France.

There are 5 “awards” in total, so let’s look at this year’s winners and imagine the future of fashion getting just a little bit more interesting.

YJ-0466

soen competition

 

装苑賞 -SOEN AWARD WINNER-

受賞者:山田知佳 Yamada Chika

テーマ:「Defomation ~身体変工~」

コンセプト:

身体変工による体の変化の様子、衣服と身体の間の可能性を見出し、スカリフィケーション(皮膚の表面に傷をつけ模様を刻む装飾方法)やコルセットなどから着想を得た。形状記憶のプラスチック板と毛糸をチューブ状にしたパワーネットに入れて、ドレスのフォルムを強調した。肌特有の柔らかさを出すため、すべて手縫いでつなぎ、女性らしい曲線を意識した。

まさか、パワーネットで出来ているなんて、誰が想像できただろう。とても新しい服の作り方だと思う。ヌーディな色も相まって、まるで木彫りのようにも見える構築的なデザインは、一見ごてごてしていて重いのかと思いきや、とても軽いという点も、意外性があって面白い。スカリフィケーションという民族的なソースにちなんで、トライバルな雰囲気の作品に仕上がっている点も、彼女のデザインセンスを感じるところ。

Concept:

She got her inspiration for these pieces from skullification (carving motifs onto the surface of the skin), corsets, and from thinking about the relationship between clothing and the body. She created fabric tubes with memory plastic wrapped in Powernet mesh, emphasizing the shape of the dress. To keep it as feminine and natural as possible, Chika knit every tube by hand, giving it its soft curves.

It’s amazing to think that this is all made of powernet, which is a new fabric made of micro mesh and very popular among older women in their 40s-50s for being easy to wear. …technically, it’s not exactly seen as a “cool” fabric.  In Chika’s hands however, she made it look like a noble tree with human limbs growing from it. And with the skullification tribal influence, we have some amazingly beautiful 3D shapes in there. Congratulations on the win!

 

YJ-0335

soen competition

装苑賞佳作1位 1st Runner up

受賞者:今村未来 Imamura Miki

テーマ:「MENOU—瑪瑙—」

コンセプト:

瑪瑙はきわめて緻密で美しい色彩と造形を持つ天然石。一つとして同じ色、模様がないことから、人の個性に共通すると考え、瑪瑙を通して自然が作る唯一無二の美しさを落とし込んだ。ランダムに配した116枚のチュールの重なりで色彩を、3 種類のビニールで石の硬質感を表現。また曲線的なミシンワークとカットワークで瑪瑙特有の縞模様を立体的に表している。

テキスタイルにすごく力の注がれた作品だということが一目見て分かる程、繊細で大胆な作業をしていると思う。色の移り変わりがとても美しい。彼女を選出したケイタマルヤマの敬太さんは”テキスタイルに比べ、服自体のデザインがありきたりでもったいない”と述べていた。それを受けて3体それぞれが、若いうちは特に、失敗を恐れず自由に思いっきりものづくりをしてほしい。

Concept:

“Menou” is agate, the stone known for being beautiful in color and depth. No two stones have the same color patterns, and Miki took this and applied it to the idea of humans also being individual and unique in their own ways. She created the designs with 116 layers of tulle placed randomly, along with three kinds of vinyl material so create the hard look of a stone.

It’s easy to see that this piece was chosen because of the incredible amount of work that into it, and the attention to detail. Take a look at the beautiful gradation of the colors. One of the judges that picked her entries was designer Keita Maruyama. He offered some criticism: “The fabric is so incredible, it’s just a shame that the design of the clothing is a bit one-note though.” With that, here’s hoping she keeps on pushing in this innovative direction.

YJ-0162

装苑賞佳作2位 2nd Runner Up

受賞者:横田 匠 Yokota Takumi

テーマ:「0」

コンセプト:

かつて激動の時代の中、子供の頃からの憧れである飛行機を作り上げた堀越二郎。だが結果として戦闘機を生み出すこととなる。自分が憧れて作ったものが、時代によって引き裂かれたことと、現代の大量消費社会の中にある服の在り方を重ね合わせ、MA-1 を解体し再構築。70年前と現代のディテールをミックスしている。

大量消費社会の作り出す服に疑問を感じた自分と、飛行機を作る夢を叶えた掘越二郎の社会からの裏切りをリンクさせたコンセプトは、とても深く、デザイナーの情熱も感じられ、作品自体に託されたストーリーを隅々まで興味深く楽しめる。使用された色は統一感があるが、素材でコントラストを演出している点もおしゃれで素敵だと思う。

Concept: “o”

This collection is a dark one (duh), telling the story of a historical flight engineer by the name of Jiro Horikoshi who went on to create the Japanese fighter jets used in WWII. Although Jiro had become an engineer because of his love of airplanes, the era he lived in forced him to turn his passion into a thing of destruction. In terms of fashion, nowadays designers have to kowtow to the lowest common denominator of consumers, and then their clothes are treated like throwaway items for the dumpster the next day. It was fascinating to hear the backstory of this collection, with the hatred of modern consumerism playing against one man’s passion for his dream, no matter how dark it turned out to be. Takumi took inspiration from the MA-1 bomber jackets, deconstructing them for his 3 designs in a mix of vintage and modern silhouettes.

 

YJ-0377

soen competition

イトキン賞 -ITOKIN Award-

受賞者:薄井あい Usui Ai

テーマ:「Puss caterpillars」

コンセプト:

不思議な見た目を持つ毛虫の一種、プス・キャタピラーの美しさに惹かれ、その姿を身にまとったら、という思いからデザイン。風に柔らかく揺れる毛を、45.5kmものウーリー糸をメッシュ素材にニードルパンチすることで表現。意図には先端にかけて薄くなるように染色。歩くたびに糸が揺れ動き、止まっているときとはまた違う表情を見せる。

デザイナーの薄井さんは、この柔らかで軽い質感を表現するにはどんな糸を使えばいいか、そこが一番悩んだ部分だと語った。結果出逢った、ウーリー糸という素材は見事にその質感を表現し、止まったときには真っ白に見えた服が歩いて毛が動くと中の染色が顔を出し、また違った印象になるという”着て動くこと”を考えた服づくりを実現させている。ジャンプスーツのルックは、ジェンダーレスの流れに乗ってる男ならかわいく着れそうなボーイッシュさもありいまっぽい。

Breaking; fringe is in. Ai was taken in by the mysterious, hairy insect known as the Puss Caterpillar, and imagined what it would like like wear one of them. She did this by using fibers light enough to be moved by the wind, and then needle punching 45.5 kilometers worth of this wool mesh into vinyl.  Then she dyed the fibers ever so slightly, so that the pieces look totally different whether one is moving or standing still. As for the jumpsuit, Ai said she hopped on the “genderless” bandwagon to create a unisex look that a boy would also look good in.
YJ-0122

soen competition

ルームス賞 -ROOMS Award-

受賞者:青山明生 Aoyama Mei

テーマ:「ART BRUT」

コンセプト:

独学でアートをしている人や、なんらかの障害のある人などが、既存の美術や文化にとらわれることなく、感情や衝動の赴くまま表現した”アールブリュット”と呼ばれる「生」の芸術をテーマに制作。キャンバスの上で踊るような絵の具のタッチを、表面に凹凸のあるクロスステッチ用のテキスタイル(アムンゼン)と合皮スエードをボンディング、さらに刺繍糸をパンチングすることで表現。布をめくり、動きのあるシルエットを出している。

鮮やかな色使いが民族っぽさを感じさせる、夏らしい3体のミニコレクションになっている。パンチングによって表現されたパレットに絵の具が勢い良く色を加えるような、力強さもありながら、女性らしいシルエットや肌感のバランスが良い。街でも着れそうな着心地の良さも想像出来る。逆に、もっと挑戦的なデザインやスタイリングも見てみたいと思わせる、可能性を感じる作品だと思う。

Concept:

Art Brut (or “outsider art”) is the concept of someone who studies art on their own, or someone with a learning disability who has to create art in their own way, so that what they tend to make is not the same as what the status quo does. Mei’s designs are like finger painting or crayons dancing on a canvas, bonding suede with cross stitch fabric, and creating the decor with punch embroidery. This was a stand out collection for being summery in its color palette and certainly standing out among the others which were more heavy-handed. The street-style vibes make it seem like the most “wearable” collection of the bunch as well, and it would even be interesting to see how someone might mix this with their own closet to create an outfit with it.

 

soensho 集合

以上が今年の受賞者5名のコレクションです。結果発表の後、選出に携わったデザイナーの先生方がひとりずつ好評を述べられた。どの先生も”今年は全体的にレベルが高い”とおっしゃっていたし、私自身もそう感じた。デザイン云々よりも、オリジナルファブリックを開発するところから、ユニークで高度な技術を要する難しいチャレンジをしているデザイナーばかりだった。全員が装苑賞というトップの栄光を目指し努力してきた訳だけれど、それをものにできるのはひとりだけ。そしてそのひとりも、将来の成功が約束された訳ではない。ファッションデザイナーとして成功するには険しい道を進まなければいけないわけだけれど、装苑賞はそのはじまりだ。決してゴールではない。今年の受賞者の名前に、誌面やニュースやいろいろなところでまた出逢える日を楽しみにしている。

So those were the top winners of this year’s SOEN Awards 2016 from Tokyo. After the ceremony, the designers met with the judges to get  up close and personal judgement on their final work. Most of the judges admitted that this year was especially tough because the work was so good. There were so many designers in the bunch who went so far as to develop their own fabrics, which is a challenge unto itself. And although each of the 16 contestants did everything they could, only 1 could get the top prize. And even then, it’s no guarantee that all of the doors that lead to their success will necessarily open. Becoming a fashion designer is very arduous road, and the SOEN Awards are just the beginning. It’s not the goal. Here’s to seeing these young designers’ subsequent work on the streets, in the magazines and out there inspiring fashion fans the world over.

 

Natsumi Yasuoka
Misha Janette


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