ブランドのセカンドラインを “裏の方” に譲ることはとても稀なことだと思う。大体裏ではそうなっても、公式にはしないのだ。後藤さんは今までどのほどブランドに影響したかはこの発表でわかると思う。今季からマークジェイコブスのセカンドライン “M by MJ”を違うデザイナー（外の二人)に譲ったことも話題になりましたね。でもタンバリンに関しては、身内の人があがったことは尊敬と謙虚を感じ、とても日本の文化と繋がっていると思う…
In Japan, a tambourine evokes the image of a sloppy late night karaoke session after hitting up your 3rd or 4th bar. It’s the easiest instrument for those who want to join in on a jam but can’t play (or sing, let’s face it). As a unisex casual offshoot of the Nozomi Ishiguro Haute Couture Line, “Tambourine” as a brand probably was inspired by that latter idea that it’s an easy option for everyone; oversized silhouettes and a laissez-fare attitude when it comes to skirts and dresses on men is part of its gender-fluid concept.
This AW 2014 collection was the debut of Fumika Gotoh as designer. She has already been the longtime chief patterner at Nozomi Ishiguro’s atelier, and now she’s got the right to take credit for her influence on the house. Given the reins, her twisted humor and f&ck-all attitude regarding fashion was stronger than ever…
Don’t expect anything less than perfect
The Great West seemed to be on Fumika’s brain as Native American motifs and accents like fur stood out on left-field silhouettes like a maxi jersey dress and several patchworked coats. These ethnic elements have been a running theme in the brand since it’s inception, and there’s often bits and pieces of traditional-cum-streetwear looks every season. The patchwork really stood out, with houndstooth playing surprisingly well with the tribal patterns. This patchwork is also a signature of the brand, and certainly the atelier’s forte.
It’s apparent that what we had been assuming was Nozomi’s work alone was probably more heavily influenced by Fumika all along. It is fascinating to have a designer actually bequeath a line to their head design assistant or patterner, giving credit where it’s due. But this could be a trend; look at how Marc Jacobs passed on control of his M by MJ line to two other designers (not from his inside core, however). In Nozomi’s case with Tambourine it will surely give the line an identity apart from the Haute collection.
