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3シーズン目を東京で発表したキディル。2015AWコレクションは懐かしい空気と新しい風が混ざり合う。このコレクションでDHLデザイナーアワードも受賞した同ブランドは、今東京でかなり期待されている。実際、日本で10件以上、海外もアジアやアメリカなど計5件ほどの取引先を持つなど、市場もどんどん拡大中。

デザイナーの末安弘明(Sueyasu Hiroyaki)さんがテーマにしたのは50年代のロンドン。不良っぽいファッションをしていた1950sダンディなファッションを着たテディボーイたちをソースに、さくらんぼのキャッチーなアイテムも取り入れた。”レトロパンク精神”なコレクションかと思いきや、チャイナ風のトップスやパジャマのようなルックも飛び出す。

Hiroyaki Sueyasu’s brand KIDILL is in its 3rd season at Tokyo Fashion Week (but with a huge number of years as director of Honey’s Dead shop in Tokyo and designer of Liber Oz and Hiro in London) and he’s established his aesthetic as one that throws dandyism with colorful POP references all into the wash together. With this new 2015-16 fall winter collection he picked up the DHL design award representing Tokyo and is one of the top labels to watch from Tokyo Fashion Week.

This fall/winter collection takes reference of London circa the 1950s and the bad boys of the streets in edwardian looks known as “Teddy Boys”. Of course, their anti establishment and anti sevile row stance gave them the label of early punks, but Kidill’s designs don’t merely reproduce that entirely. In fact, there are reference to China in a Mandarin collar top and pajama-like ensembles that put a wedge between then and now.

 

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Kidill menswear 2015-16 Tokyo Fashion Week. Photo: Mami Tanabe

 

Teddy Boys (above) テディボーイの実例

末安さんは、この反体制勢力のテディボーイムーブメントを取り入れてコレクションを作った訳だけど、日本のストリートは平和のためこういうものは現れないのだろうかな?ミーシャは東京ダンディのDanとちょうど、ファッションウィーク中にそんなようなことも話してた。今のところ、日本はいろんな要素をミックスしてサブカルを作り上げることにおいては世界でもトップ。その点では、キディルはすごく上手くやってる!

チグハグなサイズ感は、子供が自分の服とパパやお兄ちゃんの服を合わせて着て遊んでいるみたいでおもしろい。KidillのシグナチャーといえばPOPなセーター。今回はちょっとダークでいかれたStitchみたいなキャラクターのモチーフが目立つ。ニードルパンチで柄のつけられたジャケットやデニムの端切れをつなぎ合わせたようなものなど、ローテクアイテムが気になるところ。他の生地も全てオリジナルということなので注目!

また、スニーカーはキッズラブゲートの既存の製品に加え、コラボ開発したニューモデルもあるそうなのでチェックしたい。

dHLアワードの受賞者には、無料で海外輸送できる権利が与えられるそうなので、これからますます海外にも広がって行きそうな東京ブランド、キディルの動きから目を離すな!

Of course, the teddy boys that Sueyasu references are a movement that came from the anti-establishment, something that has been conspicuously absent from the Japanese fashion scene. I had a brief conversation with Dan bailey of Tokyo Dandy during this fashion week about it, wondering if there is a way for a movement to be born from lethargy. So far, the Japanese are best at making subcultures not from temper but instead from carefully mixing recipes of those who do. Thus, brands like Kidill thrive well.

For AW 2015-16, Kidill sways between tight and oversize silhouettes, as if his boys are trying to wear their grandpa and kid brother’s clothes at the same time. He also showed needlepunch designs in POP-typography motifs. He also had some cartoon character references as in every season, this time looking like a rather deranged version of Stitch along with some rockabilly-like cherries. His textiles are all original, so it’s worth a look. As for the footwear, he’s collaborated with street wear wear favorite Kids Love Gaite on some new models.

Kidill currently has about 5 clients outside of Japan, and now with this DHL award (which allows him to export his goods overseas for free), here’s hoping he stretches his business across the seas…and time.

KIDILL Tokyo AW 2015-16 menswear from Tokyo Fashion Week

All photos by Mami Tanabe

http://www.kidill.jp/ Kidill Official HP

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Misha Janette
Natsumi Yasuoka
info@tokyofashiondiaries.com