外国人にとって、日本での買物は天国でも地獄でもある理由 It’s heaven AND hell. The truth about shopping in Tokyo, a guide

東京は言わずと知れたショッピングパラダイス。もちろん、科学的な根拠があるわけじゃないけど、個人的に世界のファッション都市を旅して、世界を飛び回っている色んな人達と話した結果、全員一致で東京が世界一だと口をそろえる。それは、ショップの多様性をはじめ、ファッションの選択肢が広いことと、サービスが理由。日本のサービスは世界でトップ。でも一部の人にとっては最悪になることもありえる。 ちょっと待って？！…最悪って何？？そんなことありえないでしょ？でもね、天国と地獄、その理由をお話ししましょう…

… It’s well-known that Tokyo is a shopper’s paradise. It is the mecca. The kingdom. It is the Sun, and the rest of us revolve around it with wide eyes. And the Japanese shopping experience is also known to be cosmically good. Service and cleanliness are top. But there are some things you should know before getting on a plane to drop some yen. It may not be the smooth ride you expect it to be, and sometimes that service could go from heaven to hell in a heartbeat. So here is some truth about shopping in Japan, for better or worse.

“熱い熱い熱意！”

First off, I gotta say outright that shopping in Japan is *still* fucking amazing no matter what. I’ve been to contenders Hong Kong, New York, Paris, Milan, London and the sheer amount of shops and boutiques scrunched into our Tokyo metropolis outranks those by far. FAR! Even living here 10 years, I would need a guide before I could get to exploring Shimokitazawa or Ura-hara, and there are amazing stores that pop up all the time blindsiding me.

“Super super super enthusiasm!”

“Irasshaimase” is sometimes taken to extreme levels. And by levels I mean decebels. It literally means “welcome” and workers often yell it out every few minutes whether there are shoppers there or not. It can get quite loud, and sometime crescendos into a chorus. It’s especially harrowing in Shibuya or Harajuku; the younger the crowd for the store you’re in the louder they yell and it can inevitably get on your nerves to the point of leaving.

But in fact, there’s a reason they do this. It’s actually considered embarrassingly *rude* for Japanese to be with someone else and stay silent. You’ll notice when they have conversations, the listener will say “uh-huh” every sentence or so. Not doing so means you’re not paying attention and the other person will get offended (sometimes asking, “Are you listening?” And you’re like…I’m looking *right at you* of course I’m listening, right??). So the constant “irasshaimase” from shop people is just them telling you that they are “listening” and paying attention to you, the “talker” as customer.

Looking:

Japanese salespeople are really happy to help. REALLY happy. If you so much as *hover* at an item they will be up on you like toro on rice. They will usually say 1 of 2 things by textbook:

1. You can hold it up to yourself and look in the mirror!

2.You can try it on!

The first one is a surefire way to personally put me in a “let me shop in peace” mode. It’s an odd saying in the first place, since it comes off as like getting “permission” to pick up the clothes, but it’s a pretty standard saying and you’ll hear it all the time. It helps encourage Japanese shoppers who may be shy to “take the plunge” and pick something up.

The Japanese enthusiasm is a learned behavior. And they will be VERY enthusiastic about whatever it is you’re touching (whether you care to know about how many celebrity models wore it in magazines or how much the staff person herself just LOVES it, or how the big floppy ribbon is SUCH a CUTE “one-point” that’s not TOO sweet but JUST RIGHT or not and it’s AMAZING).

Is it possible that a shop person could really be excited about EVERYTHING in the store THAT much? Yes. Yes, it is. They aren’t being fake or sarcastic, they are just being normal.

Sizing:

There are two methods of sizing in Japan.

1. S, M, L and

2. “Free Size”

The first one is pretty standard, in that it’s really not standard at all. For one thing, a Japanese size S is going to be *pretty* freaking small. Most Japanese girls wouldn’t be caught dead in a size L so when it comes to local brands, you’ll often see “size 1” and “size 2” which are S and M respectfully.

The average Japanese woman is about 159cm tall with size 83bust, 63 waist and 91cm hip. The average shoe size is 36 or 37european (6 or 6 1/2 USA). Tiny! I am an American shrimp (luckily) but I cannot wear the pants as there is NO room for a bum at all. And the chest area tends to be tight as well, with no stretch. My Western friends here who are small enough to slip in with the crowd also complain about not being able to find pants that fit, so unless you are blessed, don’t spend too much time on pants shopping. And shoes. But that’s a given.

Then there’s the dreaded “Free Size”. It is a “one size fits all” and a serious cop-out for the brands since they don’t have to make any sizes. It is rampant in local labels, especially ones for the 20s market. Since it’s a non-descript “free”, it’s usually not tailored, with a big, loose silhouette so it’s very forgiving…. if you’re average size give or take. And it’s not just the young, cheapish brands either. I HAVE seen a high-end Japanese brand actually put out a fitted dress for hundreds of dollars in a “free” size intended for the western market. I said point-blank, “You. Must. Make. Sizes.”

Now, if you somehow find something you might fit in….

Trying things on:

You have to ask to try things on, you don’t just walk in. If you do not follow these rules you or the salesperson serving you will burst into flames:

1.TAKE OFF YOUR SHOES YOU ANIMAL. Make sure you’ve got no holes in your socks that day.

2.USE THE COTTON FACE COVER. It’s annoying I know, but USE it when trying on over-the-head stuff. Even if you don’t, make it look like you used it. It’s just a *thing* ok, do it.

The salesperson will definitely come back too soon and ask you how it is, even though you’re not nearly ready. You say “I’m ok” and they’ll come back again one more time before you’re finished. If you don’t like the item there are no racks that you can hang up what you don’t want and leave with, you’ve got to stare the poor salesperson in the face and say “Chotto….” (“Never gonna happen”.). They will take it with a smile, but perhaps due to the overbearing enthusiasm in helping, you yourself feel soul-crushed. Then sometimes you’ll get the obligatory feels and buy something anyway. Foiled by cuteness! Don’t worry, it happens among the Japanese as well (“I really like this shop girl and I’m embarrassed to not buy it so I guess I will anyway” type of guilt-tripping).

Speaking of buying….

KA-CHING! Purchase:

First things first, unless you’re at H&M or Forever21 or some market like that, you MUST purchase everything on each floor you found it on. I don’t know exactly why this is, I think it first started out as an easy way to keep track of inventory. But now it may be to curb shoplifting, or maybe it’s just so ingrained in the culture that it comes second nature. You’ve seen Japanese people line up to see flowers bloom and to eat pancakes, yes? Well they like to line up to buy things a lot too. It’s just how it is so don’t be trying to take your contraband across “borders”.

Also, some places still won’t take credit cards, although it is rare. Clothing stores are usually OK. But I was at a big drugstore the other day and was shocked when they wouldn’t take my credit card. Some little Harajuku stores might not take them, so just check to be sure first (some might also have a minimum purchase at least).

If you are able to use your credit card, the register girl/boy may ask you “one time?” (ikkatsu?). This confused me to no end for a long time, but they are asking you if you want to pay for it once or in installments (up to 3, I think). In the west, you pay your bill in installments at the end of the month, but in Japan you can pay in up to 3 installments for free at the time of purchase (or minimal charge). Just an FYI.

A lot of these things I am used to. But this still gets me no matter what: at a boutique, the register girl/boy will insist on walking you to the edge of the store before handing you your bag and giving a hearty “goodbye”. I don’t know why this personally still irks me so much. It’s like I have already been helped enthusiastically and SO politely.. it’s like I am a disciple and Jesus insists on washing my feet.  No, no, no. You have done enough for me already, kawaii girl now let me get out from under your spell. I really, really, really, just want them to hand me my bag and let me go, but I let them walk me begrudgingly.

Oh snap! Returns:

Unless the item is actually defective, and you are not at a foreign fast-fashion store, you cannot expect to be able to return anything. Ever. There are warnings on every register (usually in hard-to-understand English I must admit) so don’t try it. I could go into the time I tried to exchange a dictionary at a book store when I was an exchange student and hilarity ensued, but I’ll save it. You can’t return/exchange, so make sure you try your shizzit on first (and see above).

****

Now with the basics done, I will explain a few things. In Japan, working retail is done with pride, and not disdain like it is overseas. Some of the girls in shops can even move up the ranks to have their own brands ( This is called being a “producer”, see more on this here). So many are just trying to be your friend because the more customers they have, the easier it is to get popular.

Now the dark side…. there have been instances of discrimination that need to be pointed out, so you may be aware. I have seen it myself/heard from trusted friends that the influx of visitors to Japan is causing a slight disruption in the force….especially when it comes to trying on clothes. Foreigners may be asked not to try on some clothes if they are sweaty, too large/overweight, or cross-dressing/trans. I don’t know the implications and how it’s being enforced, but just to make you aware if you would fall under those categories and are in a small subculture boutique.

With that all said, I know this is nitpicking, as you will never leave Japan disappointed when it comes to shopping. There WILL be something for everyone, as with the sheer amount of shops statistics just support it.

Want to know where to shop?

Here is a list of all the stores that opened last year by neighborhood.
Part 1 Shibuya, Daikanyama, Ginza, Marunouchi
Part 2 Harajuku, Aoyama

Here is a top 10 written for The Guardian
And one for CATALOG magazine

Favorites in-depth from the blog:
DOG
Xanadu
Nude Trump
Faline
CANDY
Avantgarde
HARCOZA
Kitakore
Alice Auaa
Anrealage
(Also: Aquvii, Adelaide, CRY, ICON Tokyo, Alcatrock, Gr8, Cannabis, BeautiK, I AM I, Iroya, 109, Mouse, Spank!, Wagado and more are amazing)

and tons of pictures of shops below!

（日本語の続き）

あの熱意は見せかけなの？

最近アップした、アブリルラヴィーンの記事を思い出してほしい。“Hello Kitty”のPVがアメリカでどう受け取られたか。アメリカでテンションが高”すぎる”人は嘘くさいと思われることがある。ウエスタン文化の面白い一面でもあるよね。だから例えば、東京のショップに外国人が来たとき、”すべて”に対して興奮気味に話すショップ店員を見たら、その外国人客は”そんなのありえない”と感じるはず。本当に”それくらい”このアイテムが好きなの？って疑われちゃうかも。 だけどそれと同時に、努力は実を結ぶこともあるってね。ミーシャが思うに、外国の人達は店員さんを無視しようとする人もいれば、いつもエキサイトしてるスタッフをかわいいと思っったりする人もいる。

サイズっておかしい？？

試着に困難あり！

試着のとき、外国では靴は脱がないしフェイスカバーもあまりつかわない。でも”郷に入っては郷に従え”よね。だから迷いそうな顔している人に対して “Don’t forget to take off your shoes and please use a face cover”ってぜひ伝えて。

あと思うことがあるんだけど、日本のショップスタッフは試着のときの”いかがですか？”って聞くタイミングが早すぎない？誰も着替え終わってるひとなんて居ないと思う。もうすこしタイミングを遅らせるか、”How is it?”の代わりに”Do you need anything?”て声をかけるべき。いかが？の英語の How is it? は意見を求めている感じがして、正直者の外国人に“嫌い”って返事されたらショックでしょ　笑。

お会計プリーズ！

もちろん、外国人のお客さんは気に入った商品があったら買いたいのです！海外のクレジットカードが1回払い/2回払いに対応してるのか分からないけど、アメリカではそのシステムはないので、”1 payment only?”って聞いたら混乱しちゃうかもしれない。普通レジで会計の場合1回払いなので。

それから、最後の店の出口までのお見送り…あれはやりすぎかも。カスタマーとしてはお会計を終えた時点で買い物は終わってる。ずっと着いてこられるとまだなにか買ってくれないかとアピールしているように感じちゃう。”でも私はさっき商品買ったでしょ？もう着いてこなくていいわよ、積極的ちゃん！” って感じ。笑

ミーシャは10年東京住んでいるのに、あれはなかなかなれないの。周りの外国人の友達もよく、ハッピーだったのにあれのせいでちょっと居心地悪く感じちゃうわって言ってる。

返品、返金？ノーーーーー！！

それに日本では服の返品があんまり一般的じゃないよね。でもアメリカとかは返品して返金してもらうのとか、常識。売れないセレブがイベントのために毎回服をゲットしたり、お金のない学生がスペシャルな日のためのアウトフィットをそろえたり、どうしてるとおもう？(これは決して良いことじゃない...システムを逆手にとって上手く利用してる。汗汗) ミーシャは関西で留学生として勉強してたとき、本屋さんで間違った英和辞書を買っちゃったことがあった。そのとき、どうして品物交換がそんなに難しいのか、理解出来なくて苦労した。笑 日本では外国人向けに”返品不可”の警告がされてることがけっこうあるけど、その英語が間違ってたり、分かりづらかったりする時が多い。こういう英語表記が理想的よ！→“No returns. Exchanges on defective items only.”

最後に…

さらに、警告したいことがあるんだけど。。外国人が日本のファッションストアでトラブルに合うことを最近よく耳にするし、見かけるから。特に身体の大きな人や清潔に見えない人、女性のファッションが目当ての男性などに商品の試着を断るときは要注意。特にサブカル的なお店では悪い噂をばらまかれて、日本のイメージを下げられてしまいます。

大きすぎるくらいの人だって、家で服を変えられる。汗ばんでいたり汚れているような人にはティッシュを使ってもらいましょう。(日本の夏は暑いからね!)ドレスを買いたそうにしてる男性は…プレゼントかな？もしくはただ試しに着てみて、どこもおかしくないか確認したいだけかもしれないよ。背景わからない時は慎重に。

これらはあくまでもベーシックなこと。それと日本で買い物をする時に外国人が出くわすちょっとした違い。正直、アメリカではアパレルなどの小売り業のショップスタッフはプライドを持ってするような、良い仕事と認識されていない。だから、セールススタッフがプライドを持って楽しみながら仕事をしている日本で買い物が出来ることは幸せなこと。だから、外国人がもし理解出来ないようなシチュエーションがあったとしても、全体的にみれば一生忘れられないようなハッピーな経験になると、ミーシャは思う。

 

-Misha Janette
-Natsumi Yasuoka

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