ファッションの進展を実現させたイッセイミヤケ 132 5.

issey miyake origami clothing

I was introduced to Issey Miyake’s 132 5. line last summer, and I really had no idea of what I was about to see. It was held at Miyake’s design studio tucked into the residential area of Yoyogi-Uehara, in a cool concrete building that also houses his “laboratory”.

132 5. is all done inside the studio here, under the “Reality Lab” banner. Miyake works with a small team of close collaborators and professionals, including master patterner Sachinko Yamamoto, computer engineer/mathematician Jun Mitani, and a small group of young enthusiastic researchers/deisgners in their 20s and early early 30s who milled around in lab coats made of recycled PET bottles at the 132 5. preview.

132 5.に初めて出会ったのは2010年の夏でした。代々木上原の住宅街にある打ちっぱなしのコンクリート作りのイッセイミヤケのデザイナーズ・ラボでの発表会。そこで目にしたものは、何なのか、想像ができなかった。


3d clothing by miyake

Miyake’s revolutionary agenda: a flat piece of cloth that looks like a piece of origami, and when the ends are pulled it is revealed to be a 3D piece (otherwise called “clothing”). 132 5. is a culmination of origami, mathematical formulas and an innovative textile’s possibility.

132 5. is a name that is very difficult to remember. But let’s decipher it to make it easier:

1=1 dimensional
3=3 dimensional
2= folded (again)
Space=time or the moment when it is put on
5=5th dimension (the future)



132 5.というブランド名は正直、覚えにくい(汗)。ここでそのネーミングを解説してみよー:


on the mannequin issey miyake

See more below(at the link) | 続きもご覧下さい!


1325 on the mannequin miyake


I think this is utterly fantastic. People (and by “people” I refer to jaded fashion acolytes) are often boo-hooing that there is nothing new in fashion anymore. “It’s all been done!”

This is certainly a new concept! New fabrics with creases that are permanent. New shapes and silhouettes. Feather-light weight. Is this not new? Is this not exciting? I am at a loss as to why it is not being shouted about from the crest of Mt. Fuji.

It’s the passion of Mr. Miyake, the funds from which he has worked his life for, and a well curated team of highly skilled and innovative creators that allowed the 132 5. project to reach this point. And we are so lucky that it has come from Miyake, as he takes care of his projects and they aren’t reneged to the garage, as is the case with many talented (but fund-less) designers. This means it gets from the prototype stage to actually being out there on the street. We have an entire line of colors and shapes to choose from, and even a shop at which they can be tried on and shopped for. It’s hitting the jackpot.





pinwheel issey miyakeissey miyake designer


The new line began when someone on Miyake’s team came across Dr. Mitani’s 3D origami models online. Miyake then decided to try to apply the dynamic to fashion, and spend several years researching forms and fabrics, including a new textile created with Teijin Ltd. that is lightweight and soft but does not lose its sharp crease when unfolded.


リアリティラボのメンバーの一人がインターネットで三谷純の立体紙模型を発見したのが 132 5.のきっかけだそうだ。三宅はその「立体」と「再生」のところをファッションに取り入れようとしている。132 5.はそのリサーチを数年に渡って行った。そして帝人グループとの新しいテキスタイル開発の末、生まれた。


The shop is in the From 1st building on Omotesando, and it is in the site formerly for Issey Miyake Me. The design was handled by Miyake longtime collaborator Yoshioka Tokujin. I don’t usually wander into stores knowing forthright that my only purpose is to ogle and leave empty handed, but I just HAD to try some of these babies on.


132 5.の発表会からずっと気になり、やはり試着してみないと気が済まなかったので、この間足を運んでみた。南青山、表参道沿いの「フロム・ファースト」の1Fにできた132 5.の第一号店だ(旧『Me』ショップ)。デザインの担当は昔からイッセイミヤケとコンビをしてきた吉岡徳人。ミニマリスティックにちょっとフューチャーを感じさせる白い照明が覆う空間に、マネキンが上から吊ってあり、着方を紹介するiPadが何体かディスプレイされている。

132 5 from 1st

I tried on the one-piece, the skirt, a top and a bolero. The fabric was so much softer than I expected it be against my skin. And yet, the craggly points and triangles kept their 3D shape.

I had to ask the sales assistant to explain how to put the dress on first, as it seemed a bit difficult to figure out alone. Folding the piece back up would take some practice too, methinks.

The pieces are all one-size-fits-all, but even so the one-piece fit me great. There were also adjustable straps for the skirt, so there is a little bit of wiggle room which is important because it’s obviously not going to have any stretch. The average piece (one-piece, skirt, top) comes in around 30,000 yen. I was ready to put every piece into my wardrobe.

By the way, if you’re closer to Ginza than Aoyama, there’s a nice selection of 132 5. pieces and limited edition colors at Miyake’s new elttob tep shop.




ちなみに、3月に銀座にオープンしたelttob tep店でも多数の132 5.の商品や限定品は置いているよ。


issey miyake elttob tep

I can think of a dozen artists, musicians, movie stars and models who would love to try one of these on for their pure artistry. I hope to see it out there so much more in the 3D world of reality on more real 3D people.



issey miyake 132 5


Tokyo Fashion Diaries by Japan Fashion blogger misha janette | ファッションブロガーのミーシャジャネットの東京ファッションダイアリー