“It’s kind of in the middle of nowhere, with farmland where people grow vegetables, and then you have this huge incredible airport-like structure there,” says Andreas Melbostad of his studio, within the mega-brand known as Diesel in a small town in Northern Italy. “And I live in New York City, so it’s a different world”. He’s the creative director of Diesel Black Gold, and he was in Tokyo to explain what that “world” is.
Diesel is known as a casual label, most notably a “denim” brand, but it’s branched out in a myriad of ways. Diesel Black Gold (DBG) is the fancy high-contemporary side of the Diesel family which shows at New York Fashion Week for womens and Milan Fashion Week for menswear.
Andreas Melbostad is from Norway, but he moved to NYC 13 years ago for work. Before DBG, he was notably known as the designer for the now defunct brand “Phi”, which some think was one of the best brands on the planet ( That’s me who thinks it was the best on the planet). So it’s a great coup for DBG to get Andreas in their grips!
He has only designed a few seasons for DBG, and you’ll notice it’s not just denim, but instead some unique takes on leather jackets and high-tech coating of fabrics, as well as some incredible tailoring that make it designer.
As with Phi, his taste is totally modern and slightly futuristic. “I’m calling this collection ‘retro-futurism’,” he said.
Me: It feels very 90s
Andreas: I love the 90s!
Me. Oh, so who’s your favorite Spice Girl?
Andreas: *just laughs*. (I bet it’s Ginger…just a hunch)
I saw the collection in New York on the runway and the silver embellishments would swing on the skirts and catch the light for just the right amount of sparkle.
Andreas:ははは。 ( Gingerだと思う…勘だけどw)
Andreas says his team he works with is very small, like a family. And that he is changing things only ever so slightly every season.
“It’s important to start with control. After showing that you can control yourself, you can start to push the envelope bit by bit.”
I asked him to pick out some pieces of the 2014 spring/summer collection in the Ginza store we were at that he thought would match my outfit.
“Are you doing pastels?” he asked me.
“Not this season,” I laughed. I guess it’s time for me to push that envelope as well.
Check out the womens and mens collection by Andreas for Diesel Black Gold 2014-15 Fall/Winter at Fashionising
アンドレアが手掛けるディーゼル ブラック ゴールドの2014-
And Spring Summer 2014:
Finally, his first for Diesel, FW 2013-14 (this one was really excellent too!):
Runway photos: Fashionpress & Fashionsnap