I was at the Comme des Garcons exhibit of the 2014 SS collections for their stable of brands this week, and I was so pleased to see Rei Kawakubo’s newest protege, Kei Ninomiya, not only had a new collection out but that it was bigger than last season!
Called “noir kei ninomiya” , all of the 70 or so pieces on display were primarily black as night. I think of it as a challenge in making an all-black garment as beautiful and awe-inspiring as a technicolor gown. That would be a tough fight, but Ninomiya has an arsenal of tricks up he sleeve.
For example, laser-cut weaving, chain-metal shoulders, plastic peonies, and bunches of what look like sea anemones blooming studs from their center. Despite the dark name and color scheme, there were a lot of feminine touches here, especially with all of the floral decoration.
There is no such thing as “just a top” or “just a skirt” in his collection. Every. Single. Piece. has some kind of intricate detail, decoration, or twist to make them special. Both the wearer and the observer can enjoy seeing the pieces.
For example, this seemingly simple dress’ tucks…. 例えば、この割とシンプルに見えるドレスでも…
All have different sticktches! It’s not necessary, but Kei puts major effort into every little detail
Currently, one of my favorite ensembles is a AW 2013 piece from the first noir commercial collection. It’s got a big 3D “shell” spiral on the skirt and asymmetrical shoulder. It was really hard to track down so perhaps that’s why I treasure it more.