Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

The strangest comfort by Doublet. Menswear 2015 SS 違和感で魅了する日常服。ダブレット2015春夏



Tokyo is one of the “busiest” cities in world, with work schedules easily stretching from morning until midnight. The 2015 SS Tokyo Fashion Week schedule followed in that vein, with some official shows starting at 10pm (and the final show of the week at midnight). Much to say, it was a busy week, and there was not a lot of respite to wander and discover new brands at the exhibitions. Luckily, there were a few brands showing just one level below the shows at Hikarie, and that’s where I ran into Doublet, an incredibly interesting menswear brand.

This “work schedule” mindset is why Japan consistently gives us some of the most amazing “daily wear” brands in the world. Clothes go from morning to night, thus “cocktail dresses” aren’t a very lucrative market. In menswear as well, casual clothing is given a lot of fancy accents and details to make it dressy.

As for Doublet, they take “daily wear” and reconceptualize it as “strange daily wear”. There are a lot of pieces that seem half finished, even though they are some of the best quality pieces I’ve seen. Contradictions like this are the basis for Doublet’s collections.








Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

hatra hoodies are for the stylish and recluse. 2015 SS. hatra ひきこもり”ながら”おでかけ 2015春夏


Go for a stroll while in recluse. Hatra is pulling some high-level Chalayan-isms on us this season, with pieces that are experimental and multilayered in societal meaning.

Layer 1: During the cold winter season in Japan, where insulation and central heating is a rare luxury, many people gather around the “kotatsu”, which is a low-level heated table with a blanket over it (it’s like our “fireplace”). Hatra then created a wearable version of the blanket for the kotatsu.

Layer 2: “Indoor lounge wear” and “Public outside wear” are two different fashion genres in Japan, although not everyone follows the arbitrary rules of which is which. Hatra says his hoodies are like bringing the “comfort of indoor-wear wherever you go”. The irony is not lost on me, but we are rollin’ with it.

Layer 3: Taking Japan’s “hikikomori” recluse” epidemic and spinning it  into something stylish…. how’s that?





Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

change your perspective! Phenomena Collection accessories 2015 まさか!視点を変えさせられるアクセサリーブランド、フェノメナコレクション 2015 SS


This world is full of fashion and accessories… sometimes you’ve seen it all, and 10 times over. So it was such an incredible feeling to come across a designer making things that challenged me and pulled at my heartstrings (and made me want to break out my cash toute suite). That would be Japanese accessories brand Phenomena Collection, and I’m very pleased to introduce them to you!!
Each piece has a rather abstract concept behind it, and yet the forms are so light and playful.
“WE make accessories from harvesting all things in the universe that humans can perceive, and things that have become ‘one’ from the natural and the human world.” You don’t have to understand it, but just know that these clever yet elegant  pieces will make you change your perceptions…literally. The designer Fuyuka Tsuji says, “There is a concept behind all of my designs, and I hope you will be ‘wearing’ it not just from how it looks, but also because you like what it means too.” So let’s look at them!
アクセサリーブランドが溢れてるこの世の中に、心をクスグってくれるブランドを久しぶりに出会えた気がする。それはPhenomena  Collection。一つ一つの背景には抽象的なコンセプトが宿りつつ、プレイフルな見た目でエアリーな遊び心も輝く。
Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Introducing Tamaki Fujie, a textile techno-wizardress タマキフジエ、ミックステクがピカイチ2015ss


In the holdrums of a rather flat fashion season (SS2015 I`m lookin’ at you), even one unique detail, fabric, pattern, or mix of all of the above can send a fashion fan on an orbit they’ve never ridden before. Not to say I haven’t had my eye on Tamaki Fujie before, but this, her 5th collection, is just as good as her last four- and she should be recognized for being consistent in bringing some fashion to the malnourishing table.

If you want to have the tl:dr on her first, she’s an excellent textile designer who graduated from the Antwerp Royal Academy (where all the weird geniuses congregate- that’s a compliment) and Central St Martins’ textile printing course.

This spring summer 2015 collection is titled Plastic Classic/Neon Jungle. It’s a monster mash of wildly differing textures like knit and leather, and PVC and printed wicker- and yet looks, well, pretty.

2013年春夏シーズンにデビューした”タマキフジエ”。 5シーズン目となる今回のテーマは”PLASTIC CLASSIC / NEON JUNGLE”




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Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Ne-net 2015 SS Tokyo: an encyclopedia of tradtional Japan ネネット2015春夏の「和」百科事典



The theme for Ne-net’s 2015 spring summer show was “WA” (“Japanese”).

Hmmm…. a Japan-themed collection in Japan? How….original?

But Ne-Net has proved itself time and again to take the zeitgeist and make it definitely its own (last season it brilliantly interpreted manga, afterall). As the models came out one by one, me and every other person in attendance played a guessing game of which part of Japanese culture it was referencing. Did you know the “San-zaru” (monkey spirits of “hear, see, and speak no evil”) and “kokeshi” (Japanese wooden dolls) could look so stylish?

It also made me remember what VOGUE China editor in chief Angelica Cheung said about Japan tradition in fashion recently: “I am so impressed, and jealous even, that the Japanese view their tradition as something so stylish and meant to be proud of.” It’s very true… but why is it like that??

First, here’s the collection– see if you can recognize everything!

ネネットの2015春夏コレクションのテーマは”和” (“日本”)


でも実際は、ネネットは日本に流れる伝統的な時代精神を見事にコレクションに取り入れ自分のものにしていた。(前シーズンは、漫画をテーマにした素敵なショーを披露) ひとりひとりモデルが出てくれる度に、どこに日本要素が潜んでいるのか考え、見つけるために夢中で服を見つめた。”三猿”や”こけし”がこんなにスタイリッシュになるなんて、だれが想像できただろう?

このショーを観て、思い出したことがある。中国版ヴォーグの編集長、アンジェリカ・チャン氏が語っていた日本のモダンファッションにおける伝統的ファッションこと。”日本人はトラディッショナルな自国の服をスタイリッシュで誇るべきものだと思っていて、私はとても感動したし、うらやましいとさえ感じる。” そう、本当にそうだと思う。…でもどうして日本人にはそういう視点があるのだろう?



Photos by Mitsugu Uehara


Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Politely ostentatious. Geraldine debut collection 2015 SS 丁寧に一風変わった、Geraldine アクセサリーデビュー



One of the reasons I even started this blog was because I would stumble across amazing little brands in the alleys of Tokyo, or the creative people around me wold start a project that would turn into a full-fledged label (like Vive Vagina) and I wanted a place to extol it’s fabulousness. While I was lucky to have a monthly column with The Japan Times newspaper, it often wasn’t the right place to foist an experimental budding brand to such an audience. Thus, Tokyo Fashion Diaries was born. Today is one of those days that I am happy to have a place to introduce the following brand: Geraldine.

Geralidine has an affinity for all things white in the first collection, so at first glance they may appear a bit simplistic. But look again, as here you’ll find insects, gamelan balls and glass domes among other strange objects designer Momoko Yoshikawa has encased in white.

Even better, the look book photos are also oddly fascinating. Right off the bat, this brand knows it’s beautiful but weird, and takes no opportunity unturned to be itself.

日本にはまだまだ紹介したいNEWブランドがたくさん!若いだけにアイデアとパワーが溢れていて、彼らのクリエーションは本当に面白い。やはりこのブログを立ち上げた理由に一つでもある。始める前からも新聞のジャパンタイムズでコラムを書いてたけど、新人とか、アヴァンギャルドなものとか、マスに受けないものをなかなか紹介できる場合じゃなかったよね。この箱を作ってよかった!と思う時はまさに今日。ということで、今日のブランドは、2014年に立ち上げたばかりアクセサリーブランド Geraldineです。




Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Better than Jem: Sretsis 2015 SS Tokyo キラキラ80sパレード、スレトシス春夏2015


The world is a buzz about the Jem and the Holograms live movie, but if you want to get your fill of big-haired rollerskatin’ bad-ass rockers from another planet, you need only to look at the 2015 SS collection from Sretsis. There was enough here to provide costumes for its whole film…AND the sequels. Amidst a background of a live performance by popular young elctro band the PLASTICZOOMS, we were introduced to a roller derby of super rad proportions. Sretsis may be a brand from Thailand, but they know their Japanese customer so well it will make you seethe lightning bolts (glitter and neon ones, natch).

As an aesthetic, Sretsis has a certain customer. And while I will have to dig a little to find something to complement my wardrobe, the way this brand puts on a show is one to be impressed by- and can not be matched by any other brand at Tokyo Fashion Week. The band, the drinks, the guests, the decorations and the styling are so immaculate that you lose yourself in its world for the 15 minutes the show is on in a beacon of pink light. Isn’t that what a fashion show is all about? If I had a glitter helmet on, I would tip it to them.

Jem and the Hologramsのライブムービーに世間がざわつくなか、どこかの星から颯爽と現れたローラースケートを履いたやんちゃガールロッカーを観たいって言う人は2015ssのスレトシスのコレクションをチェックすれば問題解決。たくさんの顧客が詰めかけたし、ずっとこのクリエーションに着いていきたいと思わせる”もの”を持っているから、きっとこの先もファンがどんどん増える。若手人気バンド、”プラスチックズーム”のパフォーマンスが鳴り響く中、観客は興奮、ローラーダービーレースへと導かれる。スレトシスはタイ発のブランドだけれど、日本にファンをたくさん抱えているため、様々なキラキラ仕掛けにみんな湧いた。(グリッターやネオンはもちろん)


Photos: Mitsugu Uehara


Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

mintdesigns’ domestic SS 2015 Tokyo ミントデザインズの2015年春夏で登場するMissミント


Mintdesigns seems that it’s taking housewives as their style muses. Domestic life and its aesthetic is something that international fashion people don’t exactly tout around (aprons aren’t exactly in vogue…. yet….). But luckily this is a far more abstract interpretation of being at home. Bed sheet stripes, duvet frills, pajama suits, pillow clutches, and prints of a woman baking and a disembodied head of “everyone’s” jolly grandfather (the brand calls him “Mr. Mint”) made for a cozy spring summer Mintdesigns collection…

ミントのミューズ、”Miss. ミント”に象徴される”ハウスワイフ”的世界観。それは、海外のファッションピープルたちが決して売りにしないようなドメスティックライフの新しい美学 (ヴォーグにエプロンが出てきた事はない…まだ…w)。一方今回のコレクションは”アットホーム”な要素が散りばめられた。ベットシーツのストライプ柄、ベッドカバーのフリル、パジャマスーツ、枕クラッチ…また、クッキングをする女の子や、みんな大好き”おじさん”の顔。(どうやら”Mr.ミント”と名付けられているらしい。) これらがミントの2015ssコレクションにここ地いい風を運んだ。




Photos by Mitsugu Uehara