Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

A deep-sea water ballet. MUVEIL 2015 SS Tokyo. 白黒に染まった深海のバレエ。ミュベール2015年春夏


Each season Muveil comes up with a clear theme, and since the genius that was the  “Gremlins” collection for the current season, it’s a fun surprise to see this next one unfold. For 2015 SS, they’ve got an underwater orchestra of characters. This doesn’t mean mermaids or a French crab named Sebastian is going to show up on keychains this time, but instead its an homage to anonymous deep-sea creatures and feminine details inspired from their design.





Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

How Japanese do resort: Muller of Yoshio Kubo 2015 SS ジャパニーズ風リゾート:ミュラーオブヨシオクボ


When it comes to the New Years, Tokyo is probably one of the few global metropolises that instead of attracting revelries and jacked-up parties, invites calm and serenity. It’s a major turn around from the usual “never sleeps” mentality of 24 hour goings-on and perhaps hard to imagine, but the end of the year here is seriously a ghost town (New Years is more of a religious holiday spent in the countryside with family). It’s a calm you can never experience any other time of year.

But the best thing about this time of year is a few days off of work, which means it’s one of the top vacation holidays- and one of the few times you’ll see the average Tokyoite decked out in bright colors as they bask in tropical sunlight. Yoshio Kubo’s ladies line “Muller of Yoshio Kubo” was a resort-worthy collection down to every rule: color, feathers, robes, sandals and satchels. The silhouettes are very “Japanese”, though, as you’ll notice-this is how resort is done.


連休のこの時期は旅行に行く人も多いよね。そんなブライトでハッピーな気分にさせてくれるのはこのMuller of Yoshio Kubo 2015SS!



Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

The city’s bones are on fashion trial. Meg Miura 2015 SS 都会の骸骨を連れ戻しに来た”闇”を華やかな服に。MEG miura 春夏2015


Meg Miura is one of those designers who comes off as moody and distant, what with an ouvre of cerebral and gothic designs. But in fact she’s a great partner to kick back a few (beers) with; she’s very open and bitingly funny. Perhaps its the darkest designers who have the most contrastingly cool personalities (look at Givenchy Riccardo Tisci’s strong relationship with celebrities). Perhaps it’s a complaint I have about Japanese culture, which purposely leaves a distance between people, because even as a journalist it’s terrifically difficult to get to into the heads of designers here (unless they’re drunk. Mihara Yasuhiro is also one of the most interesting people to speak off the record with. Perhaps I should do a “drunk conversation” series on this blog? heh). But back to Meg Miura Spring Summer 2015, because it’s something you’ve GOT to see, drunk or not…

メグミウラは独特のムードをもつデザイナー。とても風変わりで知的なフェミニン+ゴシック調のデザインを得意とする。そんな「暗い」デザインに対して、本人は内面とクリエーションのギャップが大きく、一緒にお酒を飲むと本当に楽しい。とても社交的で冗談を交えた彼女のトークはとてもおもしろい (ジバンシーのリカルドティッシとセレブとの関係を思い出す)。 ミーシャが個人的に思っていることなのだけど、日本人って文化的に意図的に人との間に距離を置いたりするでしょ?ここ東京ではジャーナリストの立場でもデザイナーが何を考えているか知る事は難しいもの。(酔っぱらっていない限りね!お酒が入るとまた別の話なんだけど、リアルな記者はお酒を呑みながらインタビューなんかできない…よね?ま、正式的には。たとえば、マグミウラさんとか、ミハラヤスヒロさんとかもおもしろい語り相手!笑。あれ?酔っぱらいトークシリーズをこのブログで書くべきかな?笑)





Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Crazy genius or just crazy? written by… 2015 SS menswear 天才と変人の背中合わせ written by… 2015春夏


There once was a boy. He went to an ivy league college, was recruited into a top company, and he had a good wife. But one day he woke up to find his company going under and divorced from his wife. So he left his house on a trip as a man without purpose.

The one thing he had was a Haiku from his childhood.

While he was overcome by poverty and bad health, he took the thoughts he had while on his personal exile to write poetry that would live on forever. This person is real, and his name is Ozaki Hosai, one of the most famous Haiku poets in history (1885-1926).

Written by…’s 2015 SS menswear collection tells the life story of Ozaki. Is this genius, or is this genius?




そんな彼の人生に寄り添うコレクションを発表したのはwritten by 2015ss。




Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

The dark side of Tokyo fashion. Satoko Ozawa 2015 SS 東京発の本格的にエッジな服がお見え!!satoko ozawaメンズレディス2015春夏


People ask where I get my information from, and I tell the truth; it’s either dumb luck or the best stuff just finds me. It’s impossible to see every exhibit of every brand of every season, and it’s often a chance game to decide where to spend my time (there’s only 24 hours in day and I have to, you know, work). For Satoko Ozawa, I drew a big Question Mark because I didn’t recognize her name. But a photo thrown up on Instagram of one of her dresses for 2015 SS showed me that she had made on of the prettiest dresses in all the land. I needed to go shake her hand (and try on that dress!). This ain’t kawaii, this is edge with a deep cut.

どこから情報を得ているの?って聞かれる事よくある。答えは、”運に恵まれている”。数えきれないブランドがある東京で(ドメスティック、インポート含めて)、毎シーズン、全てのブランドの展示会に行くなんて物理的に無理。そして、限られた時間の中で、何に時間を割くのかというのは、ミーシャの生活を左右する大きなもの。(だって一日は24時間。やらなきゃいけない仕事はやまほどあるのぉ) サトコオザワという名前をきいたとき、クエスチョンマークがうかんだ。でも、彼女の2015ssのドレスをインスタで見た時、なんて素晴らしいドレス!ておもった。これはぜひ彼女に会いたい!(そして、これを試着したい!)と、速急に展示会に足を運んだ。



Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Jenny Fax goes child funeral…chic. 2015 SS Tokyo. 喪服ガール降臨。ジェニーファックス2015年春夏



The Jenny Fax 2015 SS show was ensconced in the depths of a car park in St. Nowheres-ville in Tokyo, a runway of cold concrete in every direction. In the middle there was a platform decorated in Taiwanese cash, newspapers, junk mail, packages and stones. When it was time to start, smoke filled the room, disorienting the guests and distorting the space. This was the setting for Jenny Fax’s newest collection, titled “Negative”. In some places, “death” even took over as the concept du jour.

When someone dies in Taiwan, it is customary to burn cash so that the spirit doesn’t run into trouble in the afterlife. So this is where Jen got the idea to gussy up her models in well-“moneyed” accessories. And this is just the beginning of the end….

ショーは地下倉庫のような場所で行われた。360度コンクリートに囲まれた箱のような空間の中央に設置された台には台湾の紙幣やチラシのようなもの、パッケージや石などが飾られている。時間になるとスモークがたかれ、異様な空気につつまれたショーが始まった。そんな2015年春夏のJenny Faxのテーマは”ネガティブ”。特に、”死”にフューチャーしている。


Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Modern Cinderella chasing a shadow. TELLSIT 2015 SS ”シャドー追いかける現代シンデレラ”テルズイット春夏2015


Cinderella dressed in yellow,
Went upstairs to kiss a fellow
Made a mistake and wore gingham velvet in July
No doctors gonna go near that, bae

Going through the commercial exhibitions sometimes reads like a broken record: skirt, pants, jacket, repeat. It’s tough for a brand for convey their message to people like me, who see a hundred collections every six months. Skirt, pants, jacket, repeat.  And just like a highway motel manager,  I’ve seen it ALL. Can a rack-ready collection really wow?

The PR01 Tradeshow is one of the best in Tokyo for fashion, and TELLSIT 2015 spring summer was the first collection to bring some VA-VA-VOOM to the room. Laser cutting its designs to the breaking point (the ripping point?), the brand experimented with a fairy tale and a side of tough love.







Tokyo Brands | 東京ファッション Tokyo Fashion Week SS 2015

Fish Born Chips brings a special brand of humor to fashion「フィッシュ ボーン チップス」ユーモアを味方に。

TOKI bag 2
Japan has its own brand of comedy, known as “manzai”, in which a group or duo goes at each other in “innocent” jabs and slapstick comedy. Humor is branded a little bit differently, which is why Olympia Le Tan does better here than the more *cough* abrasive “Commes des F*ckdown” -style goods (although these message Ts sell well to foreigners so you’ll find a trove of them sold along Takeshita-dori). Fish Born Chips is a Japanese brand which brings its own humorous taste to high fashion with light jabs at popular motifs and charming surrealism.
Most of their goods come in either hats, brooches or handbags, all made by hand and each one getting their own punchline. They’re like little mischievous winks to everyone around you. It’s kind of funny, but you know, we sometimes just gotta wear our hearts on our sleeves.