JLS’ aesthetic is built upon a thorough knowledge of tailoring (he worked on Sevile Row) so his cuts and shapes are sharp. The John lawrence sullivan 2015-16 AW collection shown at Tokyo Fashion Week is a take on retro-futurism with some of the best looks the designer has punched out.
In fact, there are many materials here that look like they were picked up from a retro “house of tomorrow”. The fur rug, the orange lampshade, the tweed curtains, the buttery soft leather brown couch… but the cerulean blue and zippy orange together are truly a modern element for today-tomorrow..
One thing about fashion that we industry people and fans alike understand, but that people who just want to wear “clothes” don’t, is how a design acts as a direct line to the brain, changing our mood and demeanor as long as its on. Conversely, it can do the same thing to those around the person who dresses up. I was so pumped for the last day of fashion week, I felt like dressing like my own toy- courtesy of Facetasm SS 2015. No matter our age, sometimes we just want to let it all out.
Let’s see Day 6 of Tokyo Fashion Week, with Facetasm, Writtenafterwards (written by…), Sulvam, John Lawrence Sullivan and Factotum!
Russian fur hats, “Bosozoku” biker gang jackets with nationalistic-inspired embroidery, tailored coats (and matching armor boots) of Kimono silk… Dada was on a roll. But as soon as that long wispy goth dress decided to grace us with her presence, it was a homerun with me. Dada’s siganture has always been embroidery, and it was spotted just enough throughout the collection like the perfect amount of dijon mustard in a sandwich. Not too much, not too little. The maxi length– and I can’t say this enough- is gorgeous. And it really shines with the pleats in kimono print. See the whole AW 2015-16 winter collection as shown at Tokyo Fashion Week below. Photos by Mami Tanabe.
The fifth day of any big fashion week is when the adrenaline kicks in and you feel like you’ve got all the power in the world and can go on forever (Because the last day is when you crash and need to carry an IV drip for electrolytes). Perhaps this is why the first show was scheduled the earliest and the last the latest this day… It’s *biologically* sound.
Today we had House of Holland, ADEAM, Yazbukey & Shu Uemura, SRETSIS, Johan Ku and Banal Chic Bizarre. Check it out;
Some brands put on shows for their customers, while others put on a show for the world. I won’t be wearing this collection, but I will be talking about it for days.Yoshio Kubo took us to the desert, where strapping lads play extreme sports on the dunes. He imagined these desert games in suits in mixed print textiles and a shiny laminate print which looked Afghan (and the Japanese press called it so) but since the models only came out halfway down the runway I can hardly say for sure. There were bits of athletic striped and neon highlights on knit that look weathered. I imagined rugby or football on the baked earth. And speaking of baked, the models were rocking that punk colored half-shaved glassy hair…
See the collection through photographer Mami Tanabe’s lens
It’s appropriate and probably very on-purpose that Mintdesigns chooses to show their collections at Ebisu Garden Hall every season. First, it’s big- and when you’re one of THE largest-name brands in Tokyo, you need to fit a stadium of people into a small space. Not only that, but Ebisu seems almost like….well, it’s not “Tokyo”. It’s more like a chunk of Europe flew off the continent and lodged itself a few kms from Shibuya. There’s the Joel Robuchon chateau, the yuppies and their little dogs on platinum leashes, and an air of money that’s going to French cuisine one day and the overpriced Mexican joint the next. Mint used to be “funny” and “quirky” but now it’s got a class of its own, and it’s way beyond trying to pull a fast trick. Of course, the little kitschy bits are what make Mint one of its own, and so I hope they will be able to evolve that into today’s world.
This time shoes were the main motif, like in the very intricate lace, and the embossed jacquard for “shoe lovers”. The models wore organdy face masks and hoods, like a gang of neo-renaissance thugs stomping to violins and mandolins blaring from the speakers.
See the collection through the eyes of photographer Mami Tanabe and stomp away.
Sretsis is the Thailand-based brand that has taken Tokyo by storm with its flowers and lace and ruffles and iconic motifs and styling that makes you want to try and make a coat of cotton candy. The autumn/winter 2015 collection was shown on a setting of 400 flowers on a set of stairs (usually for the audience seats) that the models navigated like a maze of a terrace garden. The fashion over current was a 70s happy flower-child vibe with lots of see-through linen, lace and flower embroidery. The undercurrent was a group of furry little forest animals (and a puppy) who like to come visit the garden and frolick. The shoes were furry, following the worldwide trend. There were some “real” furry creatures, in 2 little cutie pie children in animal costumes.
Check out the collection from the viewpoint of young photographer Mami Tanabe- and peace out, gurls.
Mona Matsuoka in my favorite look♥ ミーシャのお気に入りは松岡モナが着用していた★
ブランドのセカンドラインを “裏の方” に譲ることはとても稀なことだと思う。大体裏ではそうなっても、公式にはしないのだ。後藤さんは今までどのほどブランドに影響したかはこの発表でわかると思う。今季からマークジェイコブスのセカンドライン “M by MJ”を違うデザイナー（外の二人)に譲ったことも話題になりましたね。でもタンバリンに関しては、身内の人があがったことは尊敬と謙虚を感じ、とても日本の文化と繋がっていると思う…
In Japan, a tambourine evokes the image of a sloppy late night karaoke session after hitting up your 3rd or 4th bar. It’s the easiest instrument for those who want to join in on a jam but can’t play (or sing, let’s face it). As a unisex casual offshoot of the Nozomi Ishiguro Haute Couture Line, “Tambourine” as a brand probably was inspired by that latter idea that it’s an easy option for everyone; oversized silhouettes and a laissez-fare attitude when it comes to skirts and dresses on men is part of its gender-fluid concept.
This AW 2014 collection was the debut of Fumika Gotoh as designer. She has already been the longtime chief patterner at Nozomi Ishiguro’s atelier, and now she’s got the right to take credit for her influence on the house. Given the reins, her twisted humor and f&ck-all attitude regarding fashion was stronger than ever…