カテゴリー CategoryTokyo Brands | 東京ファッション

cleana 2016ss collection







The number of brands vying for our attention and dollars has frankly gotten out of hand. Some brands even resort to calling themselves “plain”, tryingt to grasp onto the safest middle-market possible while grabbing attention from the lowest denominator.


But for a fashion brand, having that one “centerpiece” is vital to surviving. It could be a concept, an avantgarde design ethos, or even a designer who himself can get the attention to his brand. No matter what it is, it BETTER be interesting.


So it doesn’t pain me at all to say, “Here’s another Japanese brand, take notice!”. Because it’s only care in the world is… skirts. Skirts, skirts, and more and more skirts.


Meet Cleana, and then meet it’s skirts.

cleana 2016ss collection

model poses in the harcoza 2015 ss lookbook



Quirky Daikanyama-based fashion brand Harcoza always sneaks in some of the most curious collections. Marching to the beat of their own drum, the Harcoza 2015 SS season they are having a pajama party and all-to-none are invited. That’s up to you, of course.

wataru sato shoes in yellow robot Gundam



地球のこの東京という都市は足元おしゃれが得意なはず!おしゃれ上級者にはぜひ、個性的な靴にまた目を向けて欲しい。背景のストーリー設定とコンセプトの徹底がお得意な、マルタンマルジェラのような雰囲気でもあるような新人デザイナーwataru SATO!

Sneakers have stolen the hearts of humans who wear clothing the world over. Who could blame them, really? Once you get a taste of the stylish and orthopedic good stuff your soul ain’t coming back from the dark side.

Of course, perhaps it’s also because unique shoes are harder to find these days. In Tokyo, avantgarde fashion desginers are a dime a dozen but few dabble in the art of the shoe. So here’s Wataru Sato, an up-coming and award-winning shoe designer who takes inspiration from Gundam, Hobbit huts and pillows (comfy!). He’s got a lot going for him in story and it works in his favor that there’s a whiff of Martin Margiela-level conceptual-ism in the work. Walk on!…

wataru sato shoes in wood and pegs



この度、このブランド初となる作品集 ”Mintdesigns” が発売される。まだまだ得体の知れない未知数のブランド、ミントデザインズに人々が魅了される理由が明らかになることでしょう!

Is it possible to be both dark and chipper at the same time? Yes, if you’re Mintdesigns. It’s one of the most original brands to come out of Japan in the past 10 years. Nowhere else can you find a label that gets away with having collections of cute European hot air balloon prints followed by giant ants, or rabbits in a gun’s bullseye without being called a little bit crazy. But the only thing crazy here are it’s legions of fans across Asia and the globe who come in droves.

Now, with the planned release of Mintdesigns first archive book it will be much more obvious to see what draws everyone to this enigmatic brand.

Mintdesigns publishes first book of archives  ミントデザインズ作品集


menswear lookbook of john lawrence sullivan 2105-16 aw

ジョンロー レンスサリバンは高度なテーラリングを得意とするブランド。(サビルローの経験もある) シャープなカットとシェイプが特徴だ。東京ファッションウィークで発表された2015-16 秋冬コレクションはそれに加えたレトロフューチャリズムな印象。


JLS’ aesthetic is built upon a thorough knowledge of tailoring (he worked on Sevile Row) so his cuts and shapes are sharp. The John lawrence sullivan 2015-16 AW collection shown at Tokyo Fashion Week is a take on retro-futurism with some of the best looks the designer has punched out.

In fact, there are many materials here that look like they were picked up from a retro “house of tomorrow”. The fur rug, the orange lampshade, the tweed curtains, the buttery soft leather brown couch… but the cerulean blue and zippy orange together are truly a modern element for today-tomorrow..


menswear lookbook of john lawrence sullivan 2105-16 aw

John Lawrence Sullivan 2015-16 AW





デザイナーの末安弘明(Sueyasu Hiroyaki)さんがテーマにしたのは50年代のロンドン。不良っぽいファッションをしていた1950sダンディなファッションを着たテディボーイたちをソースに、さくらんぼのキャッチーなアイテムも取り入れた。”レトロパンク精神”なコレクションかと思いきや、チャイナ風のトップスやパジャマのようなルックも飛び出す。

Hiroyaki Sueyasu’s brand KIDILL is in its 3rd season at Tokyo Fashion Week (but with a huge number of years as director of Honey’s Dead shop in Tokyo and designer of Liber Oz and Hiro in London) and he’s established his aesthetic as one that throws dandyism with colorful POP references all into the wash together. With this new 2015-16 fall winter collection he picked up the DHL design award representing Tokyo and is one of the top labels to watch from Tokyo Fashion Week.

This fall/winter collection takes reference of London circa the 1950s and the bad boys of the streets in edwardian looks known as “Teddy Boys”. Of course, their anti establishment and anti sevile row stance gave them the label of early punks, but Kidill’s designs don’t merely reproduce that entirely. In fact, there are reference to China in a Mandarin collar top and pajama-like ensembles that put a wedge between then and now.



Kidill menswear 2015-16 Tokyo Fashion Week. Photo: Mami Tanabe


ただのマス系ブランドとも思ってしまってたですが、この間ラックにかかってたとても面白い一着に張り付いた。コートの袖が胸の方についちゃって、ペロンと落ちてて。何のインポートデザイナーズだろう?と聞いたら、それはエンフォルド春夏2015の作品だった…と、もっと詳しく見てみようと誓ったので2015 SSを〜



I thought this was a mas(s)terfully done mass-level brand which is very easy to pass off as nothing more than such. But recently I stopped in front of a curious coat on a rack, tugging at it’s sleeves which were attached in all the wrong places. It was chic, and impulse-buy ready. But I knew it would probably cost some pretty penny, assuming it was an import brand.

Oh, it was enfold? Excellllent. So I promised to take a closer look at the label to see what was going on.

I guess you could say that this brand has done some witchery with color.  There is hardly ever a swish of a pattern in any of Enfold’s designs, and that’s perhaps what they’re known for. But somehow the





暖かみのあるショーは、世界平和をテーマに繰り広げられた。ファッションとは少し結び付きにくいテーマ。子供たちがコーラスをし、3つの大きな歩く地球が登場し、(あ、ひとつは転がってたか) 地球の上にはエイリアンや空飛ぶ女の子。あ、そうそう他にも服だってあった。

Writtenafterwards and Written By… are both designed by Yoshikazu Yamagata, one of the few designers who could be called a real ingenue in Tokyo. Or we could call a spade and spade and just say “genius”. Yes, let’s.

This collection, was not meant to shock, but it did; perhaps if naked bodies and ethnic appropriation are a 10 on the scale of weird runway stuff, then this was a -10. It was the anti-shock.

A sweet collection that was quite literally inspired by the desire for world peace, which is certainly left-field in fashion (and Yamamgata isn’t even vying for the Miss Universe crown). The show had everything from a singing children’s choir, three giant walking earth balls (ok, one rolled), an alien and a supergirl flying above earth’s hemisphere. Oh, and there were clothes too…