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Tokyo Brands SS 2017 | 2017春夏の東京ブランド Archives - Page 2 of 3 -

カテゴリー CategoryTokyo Brands SS 2017 | 2017春夏の東京ブランド

writtenafterwards 2017ss collection

Ring-a-Round-o’ Rosies,  バラの花輪だ、手をつなごう
A pocket full of posies,  ポケットは花束でいっぱいにして
Ashes! Ashes!  ハックション!ハックション!
We all fall down.  みいんなでころぼ。

Ring a Round o Rosies (RRR)も例外ではなくて、実は死を象徴するような意味が隠されていると言われているのだ。イギリスを始めヨーロッパでは、ヨーロッパ全人口の約3割を死亡させたという「ペスト(black death)」が大流行したという歴史がある。この曲はそれについて歌っていて、バラはペストの赤い斑点症状、花束はペスト予防のハーブ、そしてくしゃみはペストの初期症状を意味しているとのこと。


Ring-a-Round-o’ Rosies, 
A pocket full of posies,  
Ashes! Ashes!  
We all fall down.  

It’s a children’s song and rhyme that anyone from Western cultures knows. Children hold hand and sing while moving in a circle. In Japan, they have “kagome, kagome” and “hana ichimonme”. Variations of “Ring around the rosie” is said to have been inspired by the Black Death and The Great Plague in London (the rash that signifies the Plague was a pink ring on the skin, and people filled their pockets with flowers as they thought it would help to ward the sickness off). The Plague took 30% of Europe’s population, in a swift sweep of death.

Writtenafterwards’ 2017 SS collection was filled with appliques of pretty flowers on white, transparent organdy. On the floor of the gallery space was a ring of plastic flowers in yellow, red and blue. And the “main” piece of the collection was a round dress with no armholes, with flower appliques around the edges. Tucked inside some pockets were tiny satchels. Was there any doubt? It HAD to be about the song and the Black Death. This is avantgarde brand Writtenafterwards we’re talking about. Right? RIGHT??!

writtenafterwards 2017ss collection





今ではすっかり、ユニクロといえば”機能性”というイメージが出来上がっているが、もはや機能性が高いからといって単純でシンプルな服ばかりというわけではない。ブランドDNA事態自体は多くのラインから作られていて、たとえば人気のイノベーティブ系(エアリズムやユニクロスポーツ)や、クリエイティブ系(Ines de la FressangeやUT)など。それから、ユニクロがプレミアムデニムの研究をしているとか、NYの美術館MOMAとコラボしてるなんて初耳だった。そこで、奥の深いユニクロというブランドについて、先月東京で開かれた巨大な展示会にもお邪魔して、そのDNAリサーチしてきたのでみなさんにシェアしたい。つまり、いったいどれぐらいコラボを今はたしているか、どんな風に生地の機能性を上げているか、「ベーシックな服だからユニクロのコレクションをレポートしない」のを敢えて徹底的にレポートします。世界的ブランドなのに、SS 2017年の展示会をするのはここ東京で1日だけ。スペシャルな瞬間をおすそわけです。(自分が想像した以上に大規模なブランドのため、展示会から少し間が空いてしまい、時間かかったのですが、こっち発のブランドとして誇りを持っていただき、そしてこの情報を活用させていただければ、と思っております)。では、ライフウェアのツアーを始めましょう!

Recently, on a trip to Berlin the airline lost my bag. It had all of my basic items in it, leaving me in the German chill with just my airplane clothes and souvenirs I`d brought. As soon as I got into the city, I went to the only place I wanted to go to get what I needed and would want to use when I got back to Tokyo, getting underwear, a warm sweater, scarf, jeans and pajamas. Of course, I went to Uniqlo.

Uniqlo calls it’s clothing LifeWear. When the brand debuted this “LifeWear” moniker a couple years ago, it was understandably mistaken to be a separate collection by me and many others. But, it simply refers to Uniqlo clothing as a whole, encompassing all of the smaller lines and collaborations within it. I imagine the brand asserts this LifeWear concept so strongly, so as to draw a line separating it from fast fashion. “This is not fast wear, this is life wear,” they deem to say.

The brand has become synonymous with “functional wardrobe” but it goes beyond being a few basic pieces. The brand’s DNA is made of a matrix of lines, some that come from an innovative stance (like AIRism, and Uniqlo Sports) and others that come from a creative stance (Like Ines de la Fressange and the UT t-shirts) that certainly take a little bit of digging to grasp. For example, did you know Uniqlo has a new denim laboratory? Or that it is collaborating with the MoMA in NYC? No? Well, I’ve done the research for you, at their massive  2017 spring/summer exhibition held in Tokyo last month. Because it’s considered a “basic” brand, no one really bothers to talk about its new collections. Well since I`m a rebel and a workaholic, I`ve set out to decode the DNA here for you. Despite being a global brand, Uniqlo only holds their press exhibitions in Tokyo for one day, so getting a peek at what is to come for SS 2017 is quite special.

(this brand is SO much bigger than I first expected, so bear with me as we tour through it all)

uniqlo lifewear 2017 SS street presentation
“street” scene ストリートのシーン

muveil 2017ss collection



muveilの2017 SSでは彼女をミューズとしたコレクションを発表。彼女が愛してやまない、ワインと猫がたくさん登場するハッピーなラインナップになった。

“Do I dream very much? Do I dream predominantly about fashion? No. I dream much more about cats.”

This is a quote from the much beloved and 25-year veteran fashion editor of VOGUE, Ms. Coddington. As a professional, of course she was madly passionate about her job, but she said that there were three things that fulfilled her life: the color black, wine, and cats.

Along with being one of the smartest and wittiest women in the industry, she is also muveil’s 2017 spring summer collection muse (but unofficially, so let’s keep it between you and me). It’s a collection filled with whimsical details of the things she loves like wine and of course, cats.

muveil 2017ss collection

akane utsunomiya 2017ss collection




For a certain generation of Japanese, a “trip abroad” very certainly meant a jaunt to New York, Paris, or some other big-name city. The main goal for a vacation to these glitzy locations was for one thing; shopping. At that time, shopping abroad was undoubtedly cheaper than shopping at home, and tasting the local cuisine was the epitome of jet set modernity. You can certainly relate to the tourists in Tokyo who are going through the same joys of discovery.

But as for the reasons we travel now? Of course for the fashion fans among us we love to shop, but more than that, it’s about experiences. So then the popular locales go beyond the US or Europe, reaching to far flung places like the depths of Asia or Africa. In fact, with the rise of SNS and the thrill that comes with posting such vacay photos online, it becomes a source of pride showing places that are beyond the norm. (PSA: don’t mess up the flora and fauna mmkay?).

For rising star Akane Utsunomiya’s SS 2017 collection, she took inspiration from an African adventure. Although actually traveling abroad is the most ideal option, putting on an outfit and daydreaming about it is a fashion fan’s own idea of a thrill.

akane utsunomiya 2017ss collection

quantize 2017ss





Even more than fashion (and much to my chagrin), Japanese food has blown up in popularity around the world. And more than just a fad, the wonders of “washoku” have enlivened the daily food routines of people across the globe. And as more and more Japanese washoku restaurants open up, people become privy to the custom of presentation and delicious “heaping” on the plate.

At the Milan World Fair, it was said that people waited for more than 10 hours to get inside the Japan Tent, and while technology and art is certainly a pull, being promised a chance to taste real Japanese cuisine was surely a huge selling point for cuisine aficionados like the Italians are.

Quantize is a Fukuoka-based brand born from the minds of two creative and savvy women, one a designer and the other an events and business organizer. For their 2017 SS collection, they took to the tables to create an intriguing cuisine-inspired collection, with a surprising twist.

quantize 2017ss


東京ファッションウィーク中、ショー とショーの間を縫って合同展示会をチェックしに行った。

どんなにタイトスケジュールでも必ず行きたいと思うのは、お世話になっているブランド、応援してるブランドに”say hello”しに行くためだけではない。


今日紹介したいのは、アクセサリブランド9BijouxCloud。身につける、全ての人にとって毎日が〝cloud 9〟(パイロット達の使う言葉で、〝ウキウキ〟〝最高にハッピー〟を表現した言葉) になるように…という思いを込めたブランド名だそうだ。トランクショーではこのブランドの前で、自然と足が止まり、手が商品に伸びていた…。

It goes without saying that with days packed full of fashion shows and writing up reports, Fashion Week is B-U-S-Y. But even so, there are many brands that opt for exhibitions instead of throwing a lavish runway presentation, and many of them are brands that I support and want to keep up with. So then it becomes a mad rush to get to the location, even if the tight schedule means that the actual time I can spend in one is just 5 minutes. Peeping in and giving that “hello!” is just as valuable as all the time in the world.

And going into one brand’s exhibit, often means another will be exhibiting in the same space. And this is how I can come into contact with so many new, interesting brands. And today, I`ll be introducing you to a fun brand I recently got to know, 9BijouxCloud.






In kimono, the point where you cross one side of the robe over to the other is called “kashukuru”, which comes from the French “cache coeur” or “crossover the heart”. It refers to an asymmetrical design where one side is placed on top of the other, even in a cardigan or coat (for extra credit, make sure it’s always the left on top, as the right on top signifies a funeral). This “kashukuru” style of design takes on many forms of art in Japan, not just in fashion, but as well as in traditional architecture, or even ikebana flower arrangement. Basically, the idea is that asymmetry is beautiful.

Shiroma is a Japanese design house that takes asymmetry to another level. Almost all of their designs contain a mix and layering of textiles in an asymmetrical way. It’s all highly calculated and generally subdue in color.

For their 2017 SS collection, they teamed up with Japanese hair artist master Kamo Katsuya to enhance even further the “imperfect balance is beautiful” design ethos to great success.



メルセデスベンツからアマゾンが新しくスポンサーになった東京ファッションウィーク。さて、アマゾンはどんな新しくて進歩した(?)ファッションウィークを開催してくれたのか?スポンサーが変わるということはとても大きな変化で、一回目だった今回は私も含めみんな、まだ様子を伺っている感じではあるが、アマゾンは準備をしっかりしてノウハウも学び、この一週間にだいぶお金もかけたのではないかと感じた。ただ、大々的に述べられるような大きな変化もなかったような気もする。ということで今日はその分を2017SS 東京ファッションウィークのハイライトについて話す時間に当てたいと思います!

Tokyo Fashion Week said bai-bai to Mercedes and hello to Amazon as the new sponsor, giving us the new and improved (?) Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo. I personally didn’t even fathom an opinion on the new sponsor, they’ve got resources, knowhow, and seem to be willing to sink some money and faith in the week. But in the end it seems they’re taking it slow without much (any?) change on the outside to mention, so it saves us some talking space and we can go straight into the best fashion moments of Tokyo Fashion Week 2017 SS.