カテゴリー CategoryTokyo Brands SS 2017 | 2017春夏の東京ブランド


Miyao presented his 2017 SS collection with the theme, “Here is the sky”. He plays with poufy silhouettes in the sleeves and has an affinity for the A-line dress, making his pieces on the comfy throw-and-go side. He is known for the wilted “wings” design as seen above, which comes off as being either angelic and innocent, but perhaps also something darker. It’s a paradox that comes through in many of his designs, and the DNA perhaps has always been there (he got his start at Comme des Garcons, afterall).

MIYAO SS 2017 Tokyo


ザジコ??カタカナのインパクトもさることながら、プツプツとした立体感あるステッチが可愛いな〜 こんな刺繍あるんだ〜 へえ〜 なんて思ってたら日本の伝統技法「刺し子」っていうものなの!!

2011年にデザイナー清水えり子氏によって立ち上げられたザジコ- zaziquo、(設立当時はzaziって名前。)



While flipping through the June issue of SOEN magazine, I came across a unique new brand.

Zaziquo?? In Japanese it was written as zajiko, which doesn’t mean anything per se, but it has quite the impact coming off the tongue. The brand was started in 2011 by designer Eriko Shimizu, and it evolved from being called “Zazi” to the now “Zaziquo”.

The name actually does have meaning, and it makes sense when you learn that Eriko’s raison d’etre is a traditional embroidery technique called “sashiko”. The technique came from the Tohoku Region in the North over 500 years ago, and Eriko is bringing it into the modern times with some punch and panache.

In Japan, “sashiko” is something that will invoke images of old ladies wearing their knitting hobbies, but Zaziquo’s work is clearly stylish and young, with many ideas for how the needlework can give something plain a punchy personality…



donnah mabele 2017ss collection

パリコレから帰ってくると、今度はすぐジャパニーズブランドの新作展示会を駆け回る日々に突入するのは毎度のことだ。いつも、ファッションの本場パリでみた”THE ハイファッション”のあとに東京のブランドをみると、まあ思うことがないわけではない。でも、先シーズン感動させてくれたこのブランドならば…と期待を胸に展示会場のドアを開けた。。。

目に飛び込んできたのはMIUMIU !!?? ついこないだパリで見てきた、MIUMIUのスイムキャップのようなアイテムを発見した。早くもこのブランドは世界のトップブランドとともにトレンドを引っ張っている。ただ、MIUMIUと決定的に違うのは、デコラティブとは反対の、無駄を削ぎ落とし洗練されたスタイルだということ。そして、構築的な服かと思うと、すごく軽いしやわらかく、着心地も計算されていた。それは、このブランドには日本人らしさもちゃんと反映されているんだなと感じた要素のひとつ。

プロペラが登場するコレクションのテーマとは?今日紹介するのはDonnah Mabel の2017ssコレクション!

After Paris Fashion Week always comes the incredibly busy and packed re-see and exhibition season in Japan. After getting a taste of how luxe and inspiring fashion can be in Paris, it’s sometimes a sticker shock to come to Japan and see how watered down high-fashion can get. BUT, there are always a few surprises (and they always appear on this blog), including this one, Donnah Mabel.

The last show of the season for me in Paris was miumiu so perhaps it was just on my brain… but I walked into the exhibition and the first thing I saw were the flowery swim caps from the miumiu show. “Swimcaps are definitely a trend?!”…not to mention kudos to Donna Mabel for reading that one. But the difference between Donna and miumiu is the former’s pared down decor, and rather maxi-minimalist aesthetic. The lines are simple, but still demand attention.

And then I was asking about the inspiration behind it when I was told it was airplanes. Hm? Not flowers? Yes, upon closer look I saw that these rubber pieces weren’t flowers… these were airplane propellers.

donnah mabele 2017ss collection

hidaka 2017ss collection

“黒の衝撃”とか、”モードの帝王”とか、ファッションデザイナーたちはその功績を称えられ度々”キャッチコピー”を与えられる。最近活躍が著しい”ここのがっこう”の卒業生たちだが、彼らにキャッチコピーをつけるなら…kotohayokozawa:は「今っぽくなけど新しい」だし、akiko aokiは「少女と大人の間のモード」だし、keisuke yoshidaは「学生服に未練あり 笑」とかかな?今日紹介したいブランドHidakaも文化服装学院とここのがっこうを卒業した期待の新人ブランドだ。


“The enfant terrible”, “the Trojan Horse”…we like to affix grandiose titles to fashion designers when they elate us with their work, like they are warriors coming to f— things up and save us from blah-dom. Well, sometimes they are (RIP Alexander McQueen). While not on that level yet but still a force to be reckoned with is Bunka Fashion College and Coconogacco graduate Shun Hidaka, the Transformer Tyrant. Too much? Maybe. But his clothes will still change the way you see yourself, while changing shapes themselves.

hidaka 2017ss collection


彼女はロンドンのセントマーチン留学時代以外はずっと女子校に通い、幼稚園から高校はカトリック系のすごく厳しい校風の中で育ったという。ずっとルールに縛られながらの学校生活では、唯一休みの日のファッションが自己主張の場だったと語っている。アリスが大好きだった読書(退屈しのぎにいつも読んで空想を広げていた) は、青木明子にとってのファッションだったのだ。そしてウサギ(彼女にとっては山縣良和や坂部三樹郎に当たるだろうか。「「ヨーロッパで出会った新人たち」展を観て、大きな衝撃を受けたという。)に出会い、ウサギが入っていった穴に吸い込まれた。


What does a girl look like? There’s a stereotype of femininity I`m aware of since coming to Japan, so much so that there’s a word for it that doesn’t translate so well; “joshi-ryoku” (女子力). It’s softness, cleverness, youthful charm and subservience and it’s seen as something powerful and a boon to have. For our designer Akiko Aoki here, she grew up in strict girls-only catholic schools until her stint at Central St Martins abroad, and she found that she could only become the girl she was inside while discovering fashion outside of school. This has led her to her signature style of uniform-style clothes with bouts of subversive sexiness and chaos.


kota okuda far horizon collection

寄せては返す波のような、青とオレンジがつくるおぼろげな夕焼けのような… KOTA OKUDAがつくるジュエリーの、過去と未来はその境界を曖昧にするかのように溶け合う。

セントマーチンのジュエリーデザイン科を卒業したKOTA OKUDAが、年末年始に伊勢丹でポップアップイベントをしていた。残念ながらミーシャは海外や国内を飛び回っていたのでポップアップストアに行くチャンスを逃してしまったのだけど、素晴らしいクリエーションに感動したのでここでピックップさせてほしい。

Like a wave that furls and wanes, like the oranges and blues that velcro together at the sunset, Kota Okuda pushes frenemies “the past and the future” together in a satisfying way.

A graduate of Saint Martin’s Jewelry Design, Kota Okuda had a pop up shop in Isetan at the beginning of this year to debut his line of full ready-to-wear pieces. Unfortunately I was doing my skipping and hopping around the world so I missed the store, but I was so impressed with the designs I wanted to share them here.

kota okuda its collection


kotoha yokozawa 2017ss collection



What is ugliness? What is ugly fashion? Ugly is becoming more and more a mass-accepted form of attractiveness, especially in Japan.

One of my absolute favorite new brands from Tokyo is this young but very “dark” horse, Kotoha Yokozawa (stylized as kotohayokozawa). The 2017 SS collection is called “It’s hard to stay peaceful. I am wearing everything I couldn’t finish on a nothing-special kind of day.”

Well. Even if she couldn’t finish it all, (and that theme comes out in the clothing design) the collection was so interesting, cool, feminine, and very risky. It’s part of a group of young designers, all who graduated from Coconogacco, one of the most interesting fashion schools in Japan, and it’s also part of a “imperfect is best” movement of fashion design.

kotoha yokozawa 2017ss collection




Sadness, loneliness, longing, backstabbing, doubt… sometimes there are products of fashion and art, created from these supposed “negative” traits. Then there are times when these feelings create a chain reaction… the easiest example is spontaneous shopping (or binge eating, I suppose!).

Because you were dumped. Because you messed up at work. Because you did *something* wrong. When that sort of shopping motivation arises, we become like starved hunters, desperately searching for anything to procure. But even in this sort of wild game, meeting the perfect product is still important… and even when circling the department store with your bow and arrow, you can end up catching the perfect thing.

And this is what happened when I met Somnium. In a crazed, “must get SOMETHING” moment, I ended up with the coolest new brand in my rolodex of love.