We are looking at the 10 collections chosen to present at the 2015 graduate show of Japan’s most prestigious institute, Bunka Fashion Graduate University BFGU (the first institute to offer an MA course in fashion design in Japan AND Asia). This year the collections were even more diverse than ever before, not only in the ethnicity of the designers, but in their personal taste as well. I don’t know why I am gushing over these collections since I don’t usually gush, but I am thinking these are gorgeously done. Perhaps because I was just lamenting how “fashion” has been absent from Tokyo Fashion Week lately, but here I see lots of both wearable AND fashionable clothes. I would like to get in touch with every one of these designers and shake their hands. And then ask them to exchange coats or dresses with me…
(NOTE: and I know some of you on Twitter said it, I know that these aren’t revolutionary, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t good [the techniques ARE very good, you just can’t see them in my blurry photos natch.] Collections change every few months and our memory spans hardly further back than that. So if the fashion market has been plain jane for two years then these young ones are going to design collections like this and they will look very avantgarde comparatively. I am not being cynical when I say I’m ok with this now- It’s fashion, it’s fun-I`ll take it!)
This is the second half, for the first half designers, please see part 1
2014年度文化ファッション大学院大学 (BFGU) の卒業制作ショーでは10のコレクションがスポットライトを浴びた（ちなみにBFGUは日本だけでなくアジアで初めてMAコースをたてたから注目は高い）。今年のコレクションは今までと比べても大変よくできたと思う。デザイナーとして素晴らしいだけでなく、彼ら個人個人の持ち味がすごくおもしろく表現できていた。例年と比べ、どうして自分がこんなに惹かれるのか不思議だけど、きっとそれは各コレクションの完成度がすごく高いからだと思う。そして、おそらくここ最近の東京ファッションウィークから”ファッション”の存在が薄くなってしまっていたことに寂しさを感じていたところだったから（あえて新人にひかれるってこと！）。その上、着やすくてファッショナブルな作品を見る事が出来たし、デザイナーは全員、魅力的なクリエーションをする。ひとりひとりにご挨拶して握手させていただきたい気分。あのコートとかそのドレスとかほしい〜！
本日は後半。前半に書いたデザイナーたちが気になったら、パート1をご覧ください。
Kiyoko Onuma “Tokyo Midnight”
A lot of designers try to capture the crazy chaotic spirit of “deep” Tokyo and seriously….fail. But this collection has the perfect mix of DIY meets couture, upside down is right side up style with a little bit of “too much!” thrown in for good measure.
オオヌマキヨコ “Tokyo Midnight”
今まで沢山のデザイナーがカオスでディープな東京を切り取ってデザインに落とし込んできた。でもだいたい微妙…一方このコレクションは完璧にDIYとクチュールのミックスをやってのけた。ちょうどいい具合のやりすぎ感に彼女のセンスを感じる。
Veselova Viktoriya “To make it home”
Oh my god, these coats are gorgeous, every single one. And her yarn rainbow mitts make me want to actually wear pastel colors again. Bravo, Viktoriya! (let me raid your closet!)
ヴェセロバ ヴィクトリア “To make it home”
素敵なコートがいくつも登場！そのひとつひとつが実に素晴らしい。レインボーな毛糸ミトンに、またパステルカラーが着たいななんて思わされた！ブラボー、ビクトリア！(ワードローブ交換しない？笑）
Mai Nishi “Line Works”
This all reminds me of athletic striped socks in school spirit colors on cheerleaders. Giant socks…. I just can’t unsee it….
ニシマイ “Line Works”
このコレクションはストライプのスクールソックスを思い出させる！巨大ソックスワンピースとか…ちょっとレトロなチアガールがはくような…どうしても目がいっちゃう…もうイメージ定着しちまった
Saki Kuriu “Let there be light”
As soon as I saw this collection, I groaned. I usually can’t get into the earthy toned stereotypical organic style of design… but the soundtrack to this was Enya’s “Storms of Africa” and in the end it looked more beautiful than ever (you know, music is important!).
サキクリウ “Let there be light”
このコレクションをみた瞬間、良い意味で唸った。エスニックで古風なオーガニックスタイルのデザインは普段好みではないのだけど、エンヤの”storms of Africa”のバックミュージックと相まって凄く素敵に写った。(音楽って大事なのよね！)
Ko Yamamoto “Transformation”
This is what the “futuristic” biker gangs of Tokyo should have looked like in AKIRA. He’s not the first designer to draw inspiration from the 80s bosozoku, but here he’s got the perfect amount of crass camp to keep it from taking itself too seriously.
ヤマモトコウ “Transformation”
“フューチャリスティック”バイクギャングを表現したのがこのコレクション。Akiraのバイカースタイルを彷彿とさせる。80年代の暴走族からインスピレーションを受けて創作をするデザイナーはなにも、彼が初めてってわけではないけど、彼のクリエーションはシリアスすぎないように絶妙のバランスで作り上げられている。
Mayuko Daimon “Muse;um”
I usually just can’t with the drippy, dangly sparkly stuff, but the interesting headpieces and 3D knit elevated it to something more than just “lovely” and “sweet”.
ダイモンマユコ “Muse;um”
ミーシャは普段、感傷的でゆらゆら揺れる装飾物や、きらきらしたものは身につけない。でも、このヘッドピースと3Dニットはただのラブリーとかスウィートにおさまらない”何か”を感じる。
Eriko Shiio “Carpe Diem”
CARPE DIEM, everyone!!
And the designers take their final bow
最後にみんなでお辞儀。
おつかれさまでしたー
Misha Janette
Natsumi Yasuoka
BFGU MA graduate show 2015. The best and the brightest. Part 1文化ファッション大学院大学の卒業ショー2015年 前半
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One reply on “BFGU MA graduate show 2015. The best and the brightest pt 2 文化ファッション大学院大学の卒業ショー2015年 Part 2”
It is a seriously good thing that I didn’t make too many (or hopefully any) conclusions from the first half because a one half sample of a show this good is nowhere near enough.
(First of all, I LOVE your NOTE, so real like we can feel where Misha’s wheels meet the track).
“Tokyo Midnight”
Obviously cool and so many takes on it, each different. The one that caught my eye was the third, with the chick with the sunglasses and her belly.
“To make it home”
Love the use of color here too, it’s like her palette is void and color, so they really stand out but the void is the main theme, not just black but a range of color deadening tones.
“Line Works”
Athletic socks and cheerleaders nails it and I can’t help but think that pushing that or a similar theme more explicitly might elevate things past construction methods and space filling geometries, which are obviously excellent. Imo.
“Let there be light”
You explain this one really well. I’m about the furthest thing from an earth mother myself but the exposure always does me good. This one has a “next step” kind of vibe to it too.
“Transformation”
Obviously cool. I got into a minor debate with myself about whether it would’ve been better with all asian models, given the international models I thought there might be a contrast, but then I thought, no, he did it right. Transformation, Japan for the world, there’s gonna be some adjustments.
“Muse;um”
Can’t say I understand it but oftentimes my favorite fashion induces precisely that effect.
“Carpe Diem”
Like the first one from today, my reaction was more direct sensory, if that makes sense, and the 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th ones really caught my eye.
Taken together with the first 5 that “this *is* weird!” thing totally kicks in. Your parse was exquisite.
To answer your question, I can’t say a favorite, and assuming various mathematical operations are available, I’ll say: All.