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My plans for a post-fashion month trip to Berlin consisted of making NO plans. It was a total coincidence that a new event called “Berlin Alternative Fashion Week” was being held in the city while I was there. And while I had no intention of spending another week chasing runways, when my friend (an art curator) pulled out two tickets to see a group show, we jumped in.

It seemed the local fashion community was at odds with this event (Berlin has it’s own official Fashion Week in January and July which already seems to struggle for fanfare) and feigned to stay away. I really didn’t know what to expect. We stayed in the back, just in case we needed to make a swift exit early.

I live in Tokyo so you can imagine I have seen my fair share of jaw-dropping presentations before. Let’s just say those were warm-ups to this…

NYCで9月頭から始まるエレクトリックな2015SSファッションマンスに続けてベルリンに”ノープラン”でぴぴぴぴとする頭の中を修理に行って来た(そりゃ壊れるに決まってるわww)。すると、偶然にもちょうど”Berlin Alternative Fashion Week” (ベルリン オールタニティブ ファッション ウィーク=BAFW, ゲリラ的なファッションウィークって感じ)が開かれ、アートキュレーターの友達がミーシャを誘ってくれた。主催側に連絡を入れず、興味を持っただけで飛び入りで観賞をすることに。

ベルリンの正のファッション(!?)の業界人は「知らない。行かない。」とBAFWから距離をあけるっぷり。ベルリンの公式ファッションウィークが1月と7月に開かれるけど、これに対しても意見を寄せてみると「それな…」、とびみょうなリアクション。だからこのBAFWの放つ奇妙な雰囲気からなにが起こるのか本当に想像着かなかった。

東京に住んでいる私が、こっちの「奇抜なファッション」の塔はどこよりも高く立つと思ってた。でもね、BAFWをみたら東京はまだ街灯のように見えてきたかも…

 

 

 

Andrey Bartenev collection


The collections were split into two group shows held on the same day, and I saw just the later one. It meant a handful of designers from all around Europe who dare to be avantgarde and cater to a niche that is hardly seen on most official fashion weeks. Here, outfits were downright space-y, neon hippie, technology-gutted, mismatched, gloriously wild, and at times, completely indescribable.

There was one outfit where the DJ controlled his techno music with the zippers and buttons on his sweater-jacket. Another presentation was like a video game where the models had to shoot down a “bad guy” with flashing lights incorporated into their all-black clothing. There was a protest crying out to “save the humans” (gosh, fashion protests are SO in these days). And then there were several “dance” runways where the models spilled out onto the runway in various forms of gyration and alien-ness until it seemed total chaos would ensue.

BAFWは二つのグループショーが同じ日に開催されるもので、ミーシャは後半を見た。そこでは公式コレクションでは見られないようなアバンギャルドなクリエーションをする多くのデザイナーがヨーロッパ各地から集まっていた。このように作品は”THE スペーシー”、”ネオンヒッピー” 、テクノロジーダメージ”、”ミスマッチ”、”壮大なワイルド”それから言葉で洗わせないようなアイテムたちなど実に様々。

ジッパーとボタンの装飾がついたセータージャケットを着てテクノミュージックを鳴らすDJで始まった。その間ビデオゲームのようなプレゼンテーションが行われた。それは真っ黒の服を装着したモデルが”悪役”を撃ち落とすというもの。そして、”人間を救え”と訴えているランウェイ上のデマ。(Oh ファッション界にも似たようなプロテストが)。そして”ダンス”ランウェイが始まり、モデルたちがランウェイに溢れかえってくねくねしたり、エイリアンのように動き回る。まさに”カオス”な世界。

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My favorite was of course the final act, Andrey Bartnev, a Moscow designer who was totally new to me this time.  He created a collection that really needs to be seen to be believed. How do these structures stay together? How did he come up with the shapes? This is fashion not for humans, but for those who are somehow enlightened to something beyond what plebeians wear to cover their boring, (only) 4-limbed bodies. As the characters spilled onto the runway, I had to hold onto my hair as the tallest pieces were swinging into the audience with abandon. I am sure my jaw was wide open the entire time.

ミーシャが気に入ったのは言うまでもなく最後に登場した”Andrey Bartnev”。モスクワのデザイナーで今回初めてお目にかかった。そのコレクションは見ないと信じられないようなクリエーションの塊!どうやって”それ”と”それ”はくっついているの?この形はどうやって作られてるの?これは人間の領域を超えた人のための”ファッション”でしかない。ランウェイに溢れたキャラクターのむちゃくちゃな動きでみんあ頭を下げてもずっと目を貼付けてた。最初から最後まで口があんぐりだった。

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When it was all done, a raucous applause ensued, and it seemed we were all rather impressed. I and my seat mate sure were. Tata Christiane, a name I actually am familiar with as she is sold at Tokyo’s WuT Berlin multi-brand shop was there and she said that even though they (the designers) were always last minute, the organizers were the best at being polite and keeping up with them. “It helps that we are all crazy fish in the same pond here. A little cuckoo, you know” she laughed.

I am sure that Berlin’s reputation for craziness precedes it, and many people are probably expecting the various unique fashion at this “Alternative” fashion week to be what represents Berlin, even though the official fashion week seems a bit flat with it’s offerings (Tokyo also struggles with this reputation, and delivering what people expect versus what really is worn in the city). I would be so bold to say that with the excellent timing of being right after Paris and being so unique and international already, Berlin Alternative Fashion Week could end up being a sure-fire fashion destination in the future. I know that if I had the chance, I would want to be wow-ed again.

全てが終わっても盛大な拍手は鳴り止まず、そこにいた全員が感動していたようだった。ま、すくなくても期待をまったくしていなかった私は間違いなくそうだった。東京のWuT Berlinに置いてあるから名前を知っていたTata Christianeも参加していて、とても礼儀正しいオーガナイザーが土壇場でデザイナーたちを集めるのよと話してくれた。”これは、同じ池にいる狂った魚のような私たちの糧になってるの。間抜けなカッコウみたいなね。”と笑った。

ベルリンのクレイジーさはピカイチだった。公式のベルリンコレクションはあまり東京で話題にならないけど、多くの人が豊富なユニークファッションに興奮するこの”Alternative fashion week”はベルリンらしさを物語っていたように思う。(東京もユニークファッションには定評があるけど、期待するものとランウェイで出るもののギャップがある)。

来シーズンもパリコレのあとに立ち寄れるタイミングでBAFWが開かれるらしい。ユニークでインターナショナルなファッションに触れられてとても嬉しく思う。将来確実に大きくなるだろう!チャンスを見つけたらまたBAFWであんぐりさせられたい。

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Photos (C) KOWA-Berlin.com via Fashionstreet Berlin (there are TONS more pics at the link. リンク先にもりたくさんの写真が見れるので、興味のあるかたは是非!)

 

LEARN MORE | 関連記事も読みましょう!

 

All hail CUNE, Tokyo’s most avantgarde brand ◎東京の最高にアバンギャルドな CUNEとバルサンの恋愛ストーリー

cune-2014aw-tokyo10

 

Words: Misha Janette
Edits: Natsumi Yasuoka

 

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