少年の夢… 我々女子には未知の領域。

What happens when we girls delve into the mind of a curious boy? This one’s brimming with books, art, pictures, taxidermy, masks, fashion, and graphics, all mixed up in a cacophony of creepiness. It’s an attempt to show exactly what it’s like to be inside the mind of a boy, in its glorious chaos, all set to the background of gloriously chaotic Kitakore in Koenji, Tokyo.

rekisami 2016-17 aw collection

新しいフィールドで力強く生きるデザイナーChika Kisada。彼女のフィルターを通して作り出される世界には切なさがある。


I have been furiously flipping through the lookbook pages of fashion portals online as of late, looking for something to satisfy the craving to wear something conceptual and stronger than what has been making the rounds. Many Japanese designers have been compelled (or forced) to pare down their designs due to economic factors, so I didn’t have high hopes for finding something to satisfy my terms. And then I came to Rekisami and Ms. Kisada, and it was…an epiphany!

Rekisami is headed by Chika Kisada, a former ballerina cum fashion designer. It’s through her eyes we are introduced to a sharp yet rough world, filtered through a wildly elegant lens. That world is filled with twists, asymmetry, sharp cuts, transformation, and…harnesses. Yes, this is more “black swan” than “swan lake”.

rekisami 2016-17 aw collection

mikio sakabe 2016-17 aw collection




It seems Kawaii fashion may have gone to the dark side.

One of the most prominent members of the movement, Mikio Sakabe, has released a lookbook for his fall/winter collection all in black and white, which is an interesting move, to say the least. Although Mikio’s fashions themselves are as bright, glittery, and as kitsch as you’d expect, this desaturated way of showing them (a collaboration with high-fashion Japanese magazine Commons&Sense) really forces us to to consider how “mode” fashion and it’s antithesis, “Kawaii” fashion is perceived…and how it can evolve.


mikio sakabe 2016-17 aw collection






My breath becomes shallow. My eyes are swollen and damp, as if I have been crying. I`m constantly sniffling, but I do not have a cold. My fingertips are turning to raisins. Any shoe that is not a beach sandal gives me blisters. And the sweat ruins all of my clothes. Makeup lasts 5 minutes, tops. The air smells of sauna, but only with the putrid tinge of chlorine with none of the aroma oils. This must be hell.

There comes a point every year in Tokyo, a time when all of its people’s wills are tested. The weak do not survive. This is called “summer”. And no thanks to the proven “heat island” effect, it’s getting hotter each year. In fact, it may get so hot soon, that fashion as we know it will become impossible to consider from July to September. Will Japan devastatingly become like our Southeastern Asian countries and lose it’s 4-season climate to become a year-long subtropical one? (…no offense) Oh, that future may be closer than you think…


上:原宿で見かけた今夏のおしゃれ  Above: Fashion seen in Harajuku, summer of 2016. Source

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Location: Bierpinsel Tower at Steglitz, Berlin
Time: 12:45pm
Theme: “不気味”なベルリンのストリートスタイルに出会う ~Berlin meets Tokyo on the streets~




On the surface, Tokyo and Berlin couldn’t be two worlds further apart; Berlin is gritty and tough while Tokyo is all buzzy neon and sterile as a hospital room. But it was my challenge to somehow find a connection between them, and although these two might not eat lunch at the same table, they are probably sitting back-to-back eating the same food because the parallels were so striking.

In fact, I might say that the fashion scene in Berlin is the most like Tokyo than anywhere else in the world. How so?

Photos: Senio Zapruder


この春に銀座線の車両をジャックしたファッションゲリラ集団、THE HAPPENING。数名のファッションメディア限定の”電車ランウェイショー”に呼びだされ、私がある駅のホームへ駆けつけた。突然に現れたモデルたちが電車に乗り込み、パパラチやストーカーみたいに彼女たちを追った私。電車を降りて、地下鉄の駅でポーズをとるモデルさん(表現者たち)の圧倒的な姿でメディアたちも、一般人も、どんな人でも不思議な騒ぎに巻き起され、エモーシナルなハプニングとなったのはいうまでもない。


そんな強い意志を持ちながら、東京の各地で”ハプニングショージャック”をしてきたTHE HAPPENINGが今回仕掛けるのは…

This spring, the fashion group known only as The Happening commandeered a few subway cars on the Ginza Line for a guerrilla runway show. I was called out to a show limited to only a few members of the media, and I found myself on the platform of an station underground. When a model appeared and stepped into the train,  I followed her inside like a paparazzi or stalker.I trained my camera and shutter finger on her, snapping away as she posed and preened in the car, the usual propriety of Tokyo’s train passengers be damned. The models in their avantgarde garb then all gathered in a nondescript hallway somewhere deep inside Ginza Station, with a gaggle of photographers and muggles all gawking at the scene.

“I said to them, `Even if you won’t give us the OK, we’re gonna do it anyway`!” said Kyoko Fushimi after the show, a stylist and the brains behind The Happening. “In the end, they gave us their permission, and helped us out with logistics.”

And with this sort of determination to bend the rules, The Happening has been happening at random places all over Tokyo, showing off fashion-forward designs from the city’s best up and coming talent. So what do they have cooking this time? Well, it’s certainly a more inclusive way to enjoy their events…


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日本のファッショントレンドの回転は想像通り、とってもはやいもの。(昔の裏原トレンドなんて、3ヶ月ごとに変わったという伝説がある)。今の時代では、流行の寿命はもう少し長くなった、、、が、それでも”進化”が早いのは確か。この記事の中にも出てくる各「ネオ」トレンドもそう。今回特に触れたいのが(現名称)「ジェンダーレス系」だ。みなさんの記憶からはもう消えたかもしれませんが、下記の記事 をあげた当時は(旧名称)「ネオイケメン系」と呼ばれていた。やはりトレンドの回転と進化がはやいもんだな、、、

ジェンダーレス系のトレンドは「ネオ」トレンドのどれよりも発展しており、今やジェンダーレス系アイコンのユースケデビルくんがセレブの席に座れるようになっている。また、彼に憧れたジェンダーレス男子が数多く出てきて、例えばりゅうちぇるさんがファッションアイコンとしてとても有名になっていますね。(この記事に写真をたくさん追加す ると偉い長くなりますので、気になる方は各リンクをクリックし、ご覧ください)また、綺麗な顔立ちのGENKINGさんも一流芸能人となっているこの、ジェンダーレス系の認識は一般の方の間でも普及してます。

このジェンダーレス系の「今」に触れてみると、やはり海外の注目が気になるところ。i-Dマガジンが記事をあげて、”ギャル以降、一番面 白い東京のトレンドはジェンダーレス系だ”という。また、その影響のおかげか、彼らは海外のユニセックスのことを”ジェンダーレス”というふうに呼べるようになった。海外のAFP新聞はもっと 深く取り下げて、”ジェンダーレス系はフェミニズムに当てはまるか?それともアンチなのか?”と問いた記事をあげた。私も、今のジェンダーレス系にとても感心を持 ち、Z-Tokyoのコラムでは ”ジェンダーレス系はセクシャリティにも影響を与えている?”とあげてます。

ファッションはただの洋服のトレンドで終わることが多いけど、時にこういうふうに社会の傾向を反映させることもある。”私には関係ない”と思う方でも、今回はぜひ感心を 持って、みていただければと思います。今後も、こういった美少年と中性的な美少女が増えるのか?ま、、、それが「美」であるなら、増殖しても決して悪いことではないよね。


In Japan, we know that trends come and go very quickly (historically, new ones came and went in the span of 3 months). It takes a little longer for the modern ones to cook, and now the “neo” trends mentioned in this article below are getting to the point of being well-done. Specifically, I want to call out “neo ikemen” which as we all know, is now called “genderless” fashion. And genderless is starting to take on a life of its own now. Where are we at, exactly? First, the genderless icon above, Usuke Devil, is all over the TV airwaves and has spawned dopplegangers such as Ryucheru (with 450k followers) and more and more “pretty boys” are popping up on Instagram all the time. And who would have thought that androgynous O-nee Genking would be like the Kim Kardashian of Japan by now?

The trend has gotten so big that the world has taken notice. i-D Magazine says that Genderless is the most interesting thing to come out of Japan since the gyaru. And perhaps from this, they were influenced to start calling “unisex” fashion “genderless” instead. Then, the AFP goes so far to ask whether Genderless hurts or helps feminism. Meanwhile, most of the Genderless boys’ fans are women, and now that the trend has hit the mainstream, many girls ask the question: “Are you gay?” “Do you have a girlfriend?” The idea of blurring sexuality through fashion and actually having it relate to sexuality is fascinating to me, and I wrote a column over at Z-Tokyo asking if they’ve got anything to do with each other (read it bilingually here).

Some people think that fashion exists in a vacuum, but sometimes…it really reflects a society at large and can offer insight into where it’s headed. So are we in for pretty boys and girls for the foreseeable future? Hey, there are worse things that could happen. Read the original “Neo Ikemen/Genderless” article below.



Original Post: 11/19/2014


  1. 世界規模のインターネットの進化 (それにより、トレンドが雑誌に限らずSNSからも生みだすことが可能になる)。
  2. 日本の経済悪化。(だが、ファッションとサブカルチャーは経済効果がある)。
  3. 官民ファンド、クールジャパン機構の設立。



Subcultures have long been an integral part of the Japanese fashion scene, but they weren’t considered something to be *protected* and *proud of* until recently. The catalyst for this is three-fold

1. The internet globalization

2. The struggling Japanese economy

3. The advent of the “Cool Japan” initiative.

#3 was a major turn, when Japan started to realize that selling their unique fashion culture abroad could be lucrative, instead of keeping it caged inside of Japan. Right now the big trends in this new era are being given the prefix of “neo”. And they are taking off big time, in and outside of Japan. …some of these are even being created outside of Japan rather than inside! What are some of the “neo” subcultures in Japan right now, and what new “neo” subcultures might be born soon?